1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Clunk in reverse

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Old 08-31-2006, 03:28 PM
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Default Clunk in reverse

When I give it gas in reverse it clunks.... I have read in past posts that this seems like a motor mount issue. I am tired of dealing with this car so in the interest of saving my sanity I am going to do them all. Anyone know how many/how hard/how much?

Thanks,
CB
Old 08-31-2006, 03:43 PM
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3 or 4
Can be expensive if the front one is shot.


Start car.. have buddy put in in and out of gear while you watch w/beer in hand.

Side note: Chris..it might be easier if you put up a post that says "Everything is broken"
Old 08-31-2006, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
3 or 4
Can be expensive if the front one is shot.


Start car.. have buddy put in in and out of gear while you watch w/beer in hand.

Side note: Chris..it might be easier if you put up a post that says "Everything is broken"
Ok that works. Update...... Everything is broken, tell me how to fix it.
Old 09-07-2006, 09:48 AM
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Update, I had a buddy do this and the motor didn't move more than normal I don't think, but when ever I give it any kind of gas (inreverse) other than just very light constant pressure, it makes a jerking clunk, What would this be, still a motor mount, maybe?
Old 09-07-2006, 10:00 AM
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Still could. You can typically rule out the dogbone to the differential housing (easy to see and replace, rarely fails) and the Torque-Axis mount over on the fender by the water pump (unless it'* leaking oil).

The two biggest suspects are the rear trans mounts and the front lower motor mount, both on the driver'* side. The front can be diagnosed by reving the motor in GEAR (you did that in gear, right?) with a foot on the brake and the wheels blocked. You'll see it lift right off. The rubber tears away from the steel.

I've had this mount fail on the Zilla, and helped driverjohn with his as well. You have the earlier (cheaper) of the two Series 1 designs for this mount.
Old 09-07-2006, 10:21 AM
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Bill,

No, no reving in gear, I just watched while a buddy put it in gear. I will do the reving thing tonight. Should it be in forward or reverse?
Old 09-07-2006, 11:44 AM
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both
Old 09-07-2006, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
both
Ditto.

Take it up to about 3500 rpm'* in D and R, in a fairly quick 'roll' onto the throttle.

Stand next to the fender, have the wheels blocked, and set the ebrake. Have the helper powerbrake it in gear.

You should see it lift off the front lower mount pretty easily. This is the most likely culprit. And it'* the most likely to make the noise you mentioned. Lettuce know what you find. Then we'll talk you through the 2x4 technique for changing it yourself. The mounts in question (the two on the driver side that I mentioned) should be in the $30-$50 range each ($456.54-$875.77 canadian).
Old 09-07-2006, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
both
Ditto.

Take it up to about 3500 rpm'* in D and R, in a fairly quick 'roll' onto the throttle.

Stand next to the fender, have the wheels blocked, and set the ebrake. Have the helper powerbrake it in gear.

You should see it lift off the front lower mount pretty easily. This is the most likely culprit. And it'* the most likely to make the noise you mentioned. Lettuce know what you find. Then we'll talk you through the 2x4 technique for changing it yourself. The mounts in question (the two on the driver side that I mentioned) should be in the $30-$50 range each ($456.54-$875.77 canadian).
Cool, I will check tonight and report back in the morning. One more thing, is there any other way than to use the parking brake? It is one of allot of things that still don't work on this car.
Old 09-07-2006, 03:49 PM
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I only suggested it as a 3rd method of restraining the car.


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