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Replacing Belt, any Advices, Tips, etc???

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Old 04-18-2006, 09:13 PM
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Default Replacing Belt, any Advices, Tips, etc???

Hey guys,

I'm replacing my serpentine belt, it'* wayy overdue, it'* horribly cracked and looks like it'* ready to break any second. I have the belt but before I start replacing it, is there any tips, advices or anything I need to watch out for when I'm removing parts and putting the belt on?

Thanks for you help guys.
Old 04-18-2006, 09:13 PM
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what do you mean REMOVE PARTS???? ITS A BELT!!
Old 04-18-2006, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Hans
what do you mean REMOVE PARTS???? ITS A BELT!!
Well, oops, my bad, I was thinking of my old cars... Ignore that "remove parts" sentence....
Old 04-18-2006, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Hans
what do you mean REMOVE PARTS???? ITS A BELT!!

Hans....he has a Series 2 which requires the removal of the Torque Axis mount
Old 04-18-2006, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
Originally Posted by Hans
what do you mean REMOVE PARTS???? ITS A BELT!!

Hans....he has a Series 2 which requires the removal of the Torque Axis mount
You don't even have to remove the whole mount. Just the 4" long bolt that goes through the mount.
Old 04-18-2006, 10:09 PM
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Be gentle to the wire next to the stud that you remove. It'* your crank sensor wire.
Old 04-18-2006, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
Originally Posted by Hans
what do you mean REMOVE PARTS???? ITS A BELT!!

Hans....he has a Series 2 which requires the removal of the Torque Axis mount

ok ok. your right. I keep thinking fuel has a 92-94 for some reason
Old 04-18-2006, 10:19 PM
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I just did this a few days ago. I bought an E10 external Torx socket, and attempted to remove the one bolt on the engine mount towards the front of the car. The Torx head snapped off the stud. I then jacked up the front of the car, removed the passenger side front wheel, and the splash guard, allowing access to the bolt. I used a 19mm socket (it was a little large, so there may be a better fitting socket), and removed the nut. The stud/bolt came out with it all in one piece. As mentioned in other threads, you do have to grind down the spacer, so it will go back in. I don't have a grinder, so I spent about 5 minutes with a hand file on it. I got it back in, and replaced the bolt and spacer, after replacing the belt, of course. Use a 15mm socket or wrench on the tensioner, and push it towards the firewall. Only go as far as necessary to remove and replace the belt.
Old 04-18-2006, 10:24 PM
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Ahh.. Trying to remove the stud with that much pressure on it usually will have very bad results. Undo the nut and it usually comes right out.
Old 04-18-2006, 11:10 PM
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I didn't see in any of the posts about the nut. I only saw E10 Torx, so I thought that would work. Boy, was I wrong!


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