Addendum to Trans Fluid Procedure
11-16-2003, 08:28 PM
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Addendum to Trans Fluid Procedure
FWIW last week I deemed it necessary to change my wife'* tranny fluid. I looked at the procedure in the Tech forum and wondered why I couldn't just evacuate all the fluid from the T/C and body.
Well Last Sunday it got to it. Under the car, looking up at the trans body from the drivers side I found the line that runs from the pump to the Radiator. It'* easy to identify as it is 1/2 rubber hose with a compression clamp to stainless tubing that goes into the radiator.
Simply move the clamp back enough to allow you to separate the two, have a 5 gallon jug handy, start the car and let it pump out until it gets to a trickle.
At this point dropping the pan produces at best a small trickle of fluid.
You then can continue on with the rest of the procedure.
And yes, the filter collar will stay in the trans. As it was plastic, a deft move with a screwdriver took care of that.
Don't forget two or three cans of brake cleaner (cheaper than Berrymans) to clean the smutz out of the pan and magnet.
Well Last Sunday it got to it. Under the car, looking up at the trans body from the drivers side I found the line that runs from the pump to the Radiator. It'* easy to identify as it is 1/2 rubber hose with a compression clamp to stainless tubing that goes into the radiator.
Simply move the clamp back enough to allow you to separate the two, have a 5 gallon jug handy, start the car and let it pump out until it gets to a trickle.
At this point dropping the pan produces at best a small trickle of fluid.
You then can continue on with the rest of the procedure.
And yes, the filter collar will stay in the trans. As it was plastic, a deft move with a screwdriver took care of that.
Don't forget two or three cans of brake cleaner (cheaper than Berrymans) to clean the smutz out of the pan and magnet.
11-17-2003, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
JUst wondering here.... Are you saying that you basicly let the trans pump out all of the trans fluid untill it was trickling out of the hose??? If so wouldn't this be harmful to the torque converter, and the trans pump??
Similar procedure I used on my V8SHO. Trans is fine. Caution is the operative word. If you wait until the trans starts whining, I'd suspect something may get damaged.
11-17-2003, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Thanks for clarifying that... As long as it has next to nothing for dry run time it should be fine.... But at the same time I don't reccomend this be done...
And you have an SHO... the 32 Valve V8 too..
Does ford still make the SHO Taraus od did they stop making it?
And you have an SHO... the 32 Valve V8 too..
Does ford still make the SHO Taraus od did they stop making it?I apprecaite your concerns about my addendum, however, to me at least it made more sense to get all the fluid out at the same time. By using this method, and I again urge caution you need two people, you can quickly and efficiently change the fluid with a lot less mess and all new fluid in both the case and T/C. Again, though FWIW only.
11-17-2003, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Thats cool... Now on the SHO, which one is yours... The red one or the grey one? Has anyone with the Vulcan 3.0 Pushrod V6, or the Duratech 24Valve V6 ever ran you?? And what kind of power rating does the SHO have? I might have to start a new thread to ask you all of these questions 
the Vulcans and Duratechs all run from mid 16'* I run low 15'*. the Bone Stock Gen III V8 makes 235HP at the crank translates to in stock form about 185 at the wheels. Mine is far from stock. These cars have an incredible Semi Active Ride Control (SARC) suspension that controls all four struts from the puter. Or you can bypass the SARC and be in hard mode, which is the way I race on closed courses. The fastest V8 SHO I know of is one known as the stormtrooper. Running with Giggle Juice and a ton of mods turns 13.8'*, just giggle juice will get you mid 14'*. There are two */C SHO'* out there that I know of. I haven't officially seen slips, but have been told by more than one person the ARKANSHO will stay door handle to door handle with vettes.We suffer from lack of lo end torque, but when we spool up at 3400RPM it wakes up with an attitude.
They have all the stealth in the world as not many people are aware of the SHO or the fact that it is powered by V8. Sure ruins lots of guys days with GT Mustangs
11-17-2003, 07:43 PM
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The running */C SHO is rather secretive about time slips - working on that as Webmaster. The second is in Cinncinati get major upgrades. When it'* done I'll send you a link to look at - this thing is gonna be fugly Fast.
And yes, Wifes SSEi is 92 White bone stock except for the rust in the usual place, and the K&N Panel. Still can't get the stupid buttons working on the steering wheel. Also, the high beam control on the stalk just fubared on me. It'* still young - only 156K on the clock!
And yes, Wifes SSEi is 92 White bone stock except for the rust in the usual place, and the K&N Panel. Still can't get the stupid buttons working on the steering wheel. Also, the high beam control on the stalk just fubared on me. It'* still young - only 156K on the clock!
11-17-2003, 09:21 PM
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Re: Addendum to Trans Fluid Procedure
Originally Posted by showhat9
FWIW last week I deemed it necessary to change my wife'* tranny fluid. I looked at the procedure in the Tech forum and wondered why I couldn't just evacuate all the fluid from the T/C and body.
Well Last Sunday it got to it. Under the car, looking up at the trans body from the drivers side I found the line that runs from the pump to the Radiator. It'* easy to identify as it is 1/2 rubber hose with a compression clamp to stainless tubing that goes into the radiator.
Simply move the clamp back enough to allow you to separate the two, have a 5 gallon jug handy, start the car and let it pump out until it gets to a trickle.
At this point dropping the pan produces at best a small trickle of fluid.
You then can continue on with the rest of the procedure.
And yes, the filter collar will stay in the trans. As it was plastic, a deft move with a screwdriver took care of that.
Don't forget two or three cans of brake cleaner (cheaper than Berrymans) to clean the smutz out of the pan and magnet.
Well Last Sunday it got to it. Under the car, looking up at the trans body from the drivers side I found the line that runs from the pump to the Radiator. It'* easy to identify as it is 1/2 rubber hose with a compression clamp to stainless tubing that goes into the radiator.
Simply move the clamp back enough to allow you to separate the two, have a 5 gallon jug handy, start the car and let it pump out until it gets to a trickle.
At this point dropping the pan produces at best a small trickle of fluid.
You then can continue on with the rest of the procedure.
And yes, the filter collar will stay in the trans. As it was plastic, a deft move with a screwdriver took care of that.
Don't forget two or three cans of brake cleaner (cheaper than Berrymans) to clean the smutz out of the pan and magnet.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...767&highlight=
Not all of us will be so lucky. I'll stick to the tried and true and do it the ol' fashion way.
11-17-2003, 09:28 PM
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Re: Addendum to Trans Fluid Procedure
Originally Posted by Ol' Timer
Originally Posted by showhat9
FWIW last week I deemed it necessary to change my wife'* tranny fluid. I looked at the procedure in the Tech forum and wondered why I couldn't just evacuate all the fluid from the T/C and body.
Well Last Sunday it got to it. Under the car, looking up at the trans body from the drivers side I found the line that runs from the pump to the Radiator. It'* easy to identify as it is 1/2 rubber hose with a compression clamp to stainless tubing that goes into the radiator.
Simply move the clamp back enough to allow you to separate the two, have a 5 gallon jug handy, start the car and let it pump out until it gets to a trickle.
At this point dropping the pan produces at best a small trickle of fluid.
You then can continue on with the rest of the procedure.
And yes, the filter collar will stay in the trans. As it was plastic, a deft move with a screwdriver took care of that.
Don't forget two or three cans of brake cleaner (cheaper than Berrymans) to clean the smutz out of the pan and magnet.
Well Last Sunday it got to it. Under the car, looking up at the trans body from the drivers side I found the line that runs from the pump to the Radiator. It'* easy to identify as it is 1/2 rubber hose with a compression clamp to stainless tubing that goes into the radiator.
Simply move the clamp back enough to allow you to separate the two, have a 5 gallon jug handy, start the car and let it pump out until it gets to a trickle.
At this point dropping the pan produces at best a small trickle of fluid.
You then can continue on with the rest of the procedure.
And yes, the filter collar will stay in the trans. As it was plastic, a deft move with a screwdriver took care of that.
Don't forget two or three cans of brake cleaner (cheaper than Berrymans) to clean the smutz out of the pan and magnet.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...767&highlight=
Not all of us will be so lucky. I'll stick to the tried and true and do it the ol' fashion way.
11-17-2003, 09:35 PM
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We had this thread about this not too long ago, and DeathRat warned "you will suck AIR into the system this way. Air will cause the remainding fluid to FOAM as it enters the system".
I just read it they were addressing the active use of the pump for ongoing flush - can definately see the possibility of sucking in air.
I simply used the pump to evacuate and most definately did not get anywhere near pumping it dry.
Don't know if that would make a difference.
As I stated it is a QUICK process, and most over as it begins.
As usual you should always go with what is comfortable for you.
I have used this process many times on my SHO with no negative results.
I just read it they were addressing the active use of the pump for ongoing flush - can definately see the possibility of sucking in air.
I simply used the pump to evacuate and most definately did not get anywhere near pumping it dry.
Don't know if that would make a difference.
As I stated it is a QUICK process, and most over as it begins.
As usual you should always go with what is comfortable for you.
I have used this process many times on my SHO with no negative results.
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