Fuel smell
#11
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Originally Posted by billha
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Bill..the soleniod is more like a gently remove from the clips. I've got a couple spares for 95 laying around..not sure if they are the same.
Is the car ever overfilled with fuel? It could have run down into the canister.
Is the car ever overfilled with fuel? It could have run down into the canister.
Thanks.
#12
Senior Member
True Car Nut
gmpartsdirect says that the '92-93 Purge Valve Solenoid P/N is 25530972
'96-97 P/N is 1997210
They are the only two listed there. No listing specifically for '95. BillBoost, maybe you can check the P/N on the ones you have at home, later.
'96-97 P/N is 1997210
They are the only two listed there. No listing specifically for '95. BillBoost, maybe you can check the P/N on the ones you have at home, later.
#13
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Originally Posted by lash
gmpartsdirect says that the '92-93 Purge Valve Solenoid P/N is 25530972
'96-97 P/N is 1997210
They are the only two listed there. No listing specifically for '95. BillBoost, maybe you can check the P/N on the ones you have at home, later.
'96-97 P/N is 1997210
They are the only two listed there. No listing specifically for '95. BillBoost, maybe you can check the P/N on the ones you have at home, later.
#14
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Actually, the more I look at those P/Ns, the more it'* bugging me that the '96-97 one is only 7 digits. I double checked and gmpd is listing a few that only have 7 digits, but I know that GM almost always used 8 digits in their part nos. I'll have to look that one up at home tonight.
#16
Senior Member
True Car Nut
gmpd only lists a different P/N for '98-99 SC models. All others show same part w/no differentiation for SC or NA. I'm not sure if that'* 100% reliable info though, I only trust gmpd info a little...
#17
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I have the same problem... And someone told me that if u wanted to check on the EVAP to stick to cables straight from battery and stick in femalet connector. If u here/feel a click it'* good.
There are two other sensors: one on top of Canister and top of Gas Tank... which are'nt usually the ones.
Let me know please if you succeded with this issue.
There are two other sensors: one on top of Canister and top of Gas Tank... which are'nt usually the ones.
Let me know please if you succeded with this issue.
#19
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
The best test is that the car needs to be up to temperature and running for about 2-5 minutes. Then put your hand on the soleniod for about 2 minutes. You'll feel it working/vibrating if it is good.
Also..Like Devon mentioned..usually they'll toss a code.
Also..Like Devon mentioned..usually they'll toss a code.
#20
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The best test is that the car needs to be up to temperature and running for about 2-5 minutes. Then put your hand on the soleniod for about 2 minutes. You'll feel it working/vibrating if it is good.
Also..Like Devon mentioned..usually they'll toss a code.
Also..Like Devon mentioned..usually they'll toss a code.
I've read that the OBDII systems are capable of detecting fuel vapor problems like that, but I don't think the OBDI systems on my bonnies are capable of detecting a problem except possibly the case where a quad driver error occurs if the solenoid coil is shorted or open.