Well I know that my HVAC programer and the air mix door actuator are bad but I don't have the cash on hand right now to fix it, but I was wondering if any one could tell me how and if it'* possible to set the air mix door manually so I can at least have some AC over the summer while I save up cash to have the system properly repaired.

I have tried looking under the passenger side of the dash but I do not see a way to get to the air mix door, can anyone out there give me a clue.

Thanks

NOTE: If you know that your air mix actuator is shot then it will be OK to manually move it. However, the actuator arm should not normally be moved manually because the nylon gears can be damaged.

The air temp door can be seen and moved through the glove box. You'll need a long screwdriver or similar instrument. The end of the actuator rod and connection can be seen with a flashlight through the left hole in the black steel dash structure. Adjust the temp door arm all the way to the left for full cold after adjusting the temp control to 60*.

I haven't heard of many HVAC programmer failures. Was it determined to be faulty via a scantool??

Cool thanks for the help I'm going to outside now I see if I can see what you're talking about.

The temp has been flashing and I had no heat or AC couldn't change the temp at all so I took it to the dealer and the diagnosed the problem as being that the air mix actuator shorted out and then shorted out the HVAC programer. Kinda sucks that a $60 part shorted out a $600 part. I would replace it myself but pulling the dash out is a bigger hassle than I want to deal with plus if it shorts out again or something else happens to it it'll be on the dealer then.

There'* been a couple of members that have changed the actuator without dash removal. Removing the programmer is part of that job. Since the actuator lives on the top of the heater core cover, the idea is to dig into it through that method.

When I installed the 97 programmer into my 93, I did it from under the dash. If you know your way around up there, it can be done . I've got plenty of pics if you decide to grab one from a junk yard.

Well I got the air mix door set to cool, though when I tried to move the lever I ended up popping the actuator rod off the lever so I had to tie the lever down by carefully fishing a piece of wire underneathe that metal braket and looping it around the lever, I nearly crapped my pants when I realzied that the flow of air would make it default to heat without somehting to hold that lever in place.

So I got it working for now, thanks randman1

If you could tell me how to get to the actautor and the programmer without pulling the dash that would be awesome. How much does a programer cost from the junkyard?

I don't think too many people would know what the heck it is when you plop it down in the parts counter. Offer $20 for the "neat black box to tinker with".

Here'* a behind the scene look at the dash:







This will kinda allow you to get the feel for what'* going on back there. Although the actuator and rod were camera shy, you can get a good sense of where they belong. One quick note, the two 7mm screws on the heater core cover were smaller in my 97 so I assume they are smaller on your car too.

The idea is to remove some components to the right of the heater core cover to remove it. This includes the HVAC programmer. You will easily see the large electrical connector that plugs into the programmer but what you won't see is a smaller connector that goes from the programmer to the actuator. It plugs in from the top so you will have to feel for it to disconnect. Once you have enough room to remove the heater core cover, you can reach up and disconnect the rod and the whole assembly will come out. Remove the old actuator from the cover and reinstall the new one. Reverse precedures for reinstallation for other components.

Attaching and calibrating the rod can be difficult but you usually set the ECC temp setting to full hot, move the air mix door lever all the way to the right (like the first pic) and connect the rod in the middle of the threads. You might have to readjust but this usually work the first time. Don't forget to reconnect the small programmer to actuator connector.

If you have forearms like Popeye, expect some minor cuts, scratches and pokes. It is tight but think of all the time and agony you'll be saving.

Ok that doesn't look too bad, if you pull the passenger air bag can you get to acutator and and rod on the top? Not that I want to pull an airbag but if it will make it considerably easier...
Do you have any pics with the programmer?

So you are able to get to all that from just under the dash then? And the acutator will be mounted on the heater core cover? it just comes out as one piece? It looks tight but if you say it'* doable I might give it a shot, just need to see if I can find a junkyard with a recent bonneville, I need to get some other interior parts too anyways.


Thanks again

Airbag bolts in form behind so if you can get to them the dash is already off.

The nice thing about getting stuff from a junk yard is you can get a very good feel for how to remove things and get at everything. if you break something, go on to the next car.

You should include your location in your profile so it appears under your username in posts. Other members that might be local to you can suggest yards ect.

It'* dark now but tommorow I'll size it up and figure out if I want try it myself, and I can see how pulling the part off a junk car would help me to figure out how to put it on my car, would be much cheaper than having the dealer do it, they wanted to charge me $1100 or so to fix it.

But at least I have AC for now though, wish I would have know how to get at it during the winter I could have had heat then...oh well

Vital49 has recommended a couple junk yards in your area before. Send him a PM if you have difficulty locating the parts.