Front Hub Bearing Replacement - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat
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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-26-2008, 05:05 AM   #11
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Default bearing/hub for 1992 Bonneville

Check out this link

it is for the front hub with ABS for $64.99 each. Need a new hub for your GM car, here it is!

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Old 11-09-2008, 10:48 PM   #12
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I just have a troubleshooting problem.

I just replaced the two front wheel bearing hubs on my 2001. Since then, the ABS light has come on and stays on, is there a process to reset the ABS since it was disconnected while the car was turned on and off during installation, or is there possibly another reason for this?

Any feedback is appreciated.

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Old 03-17-2010, 04:40 PM   #13
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Jim you really know how to make it sound so easy. Great instructions. The only hard part is breaking that dang nut - LOL and believe me you will trying to push down on that pry bar.

Originally Posted by jimzdat View Post
Well, just got doing this job on my 96 SSE the other day (I was getting an occasional clunking from the right front on braking), figured I'd let everyone know it wasn't as hard as I was expecting--took about 1.5 hours for me to finish.

Here'* what it takes:

Replacement Hub/Bearing assembly (Timken Part# 513087 $121.99 @ Autozone)
Jack & jackstands
1-5/16 socket
Torx T-50 socket
3/8 allen wrench (or socket bit)

(These instructions are not meant to be taken as gospel, just my experience, and information from the 1996 H-platform manual. Please work safely, and don't sue me if I missed something in here and your car ceases to function)

1. Jack up the front of the car, and support it safely
2. Remove the wheel from the offending hub
3. Grab an assistant--have them get in the car (carefully) and hold down the brake pedal
4. While brake is depressed, use the 1-5/16" socket to loosen the nut on the end of the halfshaft, once that is off, you can dismiss your assistant
5. The manual says to use a gear puller to push the halfshaft inboard slightly to break it free from the hub, but I found that a good whack with a mallet works also--use a block of wood to protect the threads if you don't have a soft-faced mallet
6. Use the 3/8 allen wrench to remove the caliper bolts--use a piece of wire to hang the caliper from the spring, so it doesn't strain the hose
7. Pull the rotor off the hub, set aside
8. Unplug the ABS sensor, and remove the connector from the dust shield
9. Use the Torx T-50 socket to remove the three bolts holding the hub assembly to the spindle assembly
10. At this point, the hub assembly should slide right out--if it needs some persuasion, carefully pry it out of the spindle
11. After the hub is removed, you'll notice a fair amount of dirt built up in the housing it fits into--make sure you clean that all out
12. Install the new hub assembly into the spindle, torque spec for the Torx bolts is 52 ft-lbs (according to my manual)
13. Clip the ABS connector back onto the dust shield, and plug the vehicle harness back in
14. At this point, you should be able to pop the halfshaft back into the hub assembly and get the nut started--go ahead and do that now
15. Put the brake rotor back on the hub, and reinstall the caliper
16. Get your assistant to came back out and stand on the brake pedal
17. Torque the nut on the end of the halfshaft to 115 ft-lbs
18. Tell assistant thanks, and send them on their merry way
19. Reinstall tire, torque lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs
20. Put car back on ground, and you're done!

Hope this helps someone out there--I figure it can complement Jeff'* write-up on the rear bearing replacement

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