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Replace pullies only or whole assemblies?

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Old 06-12-2005, 11:19 PM
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Default Replace pullies only or whole assemblies?

Two of my pullies [on the 97 drivetrain] have a ridge in the middle which also split the belt in two. I noticed they are plastic too. One is he SC belt tensioner and the other is an idler pulley. Can I just buy the pullies and replace or do I need the whole tensioner assembly and whatnot. Are they available in some metalic form?



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Old 06-12-2005, 11:28 PM
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Old 06-12-2005, 11:35 PM
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randman. You can just buy the pulleys from GM and the replacement are metal. I have one in my garage right now (mainly because all I have is the Chilton'* manual and it doesn't say anything about how to release the series two supercharger tensioner, or how to remove the pulley'*.) Also, here is a thread from the forced induction section that I have read, but I am still stuck. Man, I need to find a 97 FSM.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=34721
Old 06-12-2005, 11:41 PM
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I have a 97 FSM but it doesn't mention any removal/installation of the pullies only... just the assemblies and brackets. Do you have part numbers?

When you say "it doesn't say anything about how to release the series two supercharger tensioner" do you mean release the tension for belt removal? If so, grab a T35 or 40 socket on a ratchet and turn cloockwise.
Old 06-12-2005, 11:53 PM
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PN for smooth is 24506756. I did not get the ribbed yet, sorry. THANK YOU, I knew you had a 97 FSM but I didn't want to bug you since you had the frankenbonnie project going on so I was waiting for rixak to update the thread. All Chilton'* showed was a poor rendering of a series one with a ratchet on the nut and a clockwise arrow. Since the routing was different and SII had torx, I was too chicken to try. I have been checking E-bay daily for the 97 FSM for myself, so I wont have to drive you guys nuts all the time. Again, thanks.
Old 06-12-2005, 11:58 PM
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And thank you for the part number. I'll drop by my local AC Delco dealer tomorrow to see if they have 'em in stock. I'll try to give details of the pully removal if I'm successful.

I wan't to do as much to this motor while it'* out of the car.
Old 06-13-2005, 12:04 AM
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Thanks. rixak changed the pulley, so it must be possible without changing the complete assemblies. I'll be watching for your pulley removal steps.
Old 06-13-2005, 08:14 AM
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Randy, I had my mechanic change my idler pulley (just the pulley itself) as a precautionary measure. It can be done....I just don't know how!
Old 06-13-2005, 08:56 AM
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My short term memory is going to crap so I need to clarify a couple of things:

First the SC tensioner bolt is a T50 and the tensioner needs to be turned COUNTERCLOCKWISE rather than clockwise to remove the belt


It took all of 4 minutes to remove both pullies due to the motor being on the floor in Bill'* garage. I'd allow for a little bit more time though if it is installed in the car Here are the steps used to remove both pulleys. It looks like the tensioner pulley can be changed without all of the component removal:

Tension was released on both drive belts
Power steering pump was unmounted (two 13mm bolts) and set aside
Torque axis mount was removed (two 15mm and one 18mm stud for engine bracket)
SC tensioner pulley bolt was removed (T50). NOTE: This bolt has REVERSE THREADS
Idler pulley bolt was removed (T50) Standard threads on this one.
Off to the parts store

There is no need for a puller of any sort. Keep in mind that the engine will have to be supported in some way to remove the torque axis mount and probably need to be lifted or jacked diring the procedure to remove components.

I'll have some pics later.
Old 06-13-2005, 09:00 AM
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All this extra time = more time for BEER.......

Notice he is taking pics as if it is in the car but he'* able to work on it easy because it'* out of the car.


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