1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

99 SSEi Serpentine Belt Replacement

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Old 07-03-2006, 03:47 PM
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Default 99 SSEi Serpentine Belt Replacement

I looked at other posts about replacing the serpentine belts, but none were specific for the 1999 SSEi. I've removed the splash gaurd and the bolt that goes through the motor mount, however, I cannot get the belt off/on. I seen in other posts that there is another bolt near the bottom that has a sleeve which allows the belt to come off/on. I have bought a replacement motor mount, since I was replacing the belt, but I cannot get the two horizontal bolts out of the frame (from underneath). I've been spraying wd40 on them every hour for the past three hours and can't budge them. Any suggestions for getting belt on/off?
Old 07-03-2006, 05:40 PM
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I have also removed the sleeve (lower mount) and still cannot get belt off. I can see there is only 1/4" gap between one pulley and the metal frame of the mount. The way the belt is positioned, it looks like it has to squeeze between there in order to get out. I've even gone so far as to take the supercharger belt completely out so I had more room to work. I still cannot figure this out. Please help.
Old 07-03-2006, 05:54 PM
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Hit up Boosty. I know he'* done both belts
Old 07-03-2006, 07:38 PM
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Actually, I got it. Took a while, but I figured it out. The two horizontal bolts going into the frame that held the motor mount in place (which are also sloted) were stripping and I could not get them off. Figuring this project was a wash, I decided to put the mount back together. In order to align the 5" rod, I lifted the motor w/ jack. I needed to get the motor a little higher and when I lifted, the motor mount popped out of place (already had the top two bolts undone). Now that the motor mount was out, I had room to loosen the upper right mount bolt (to the engine, between some pulleys). Once I loosened this bolt, I could pull the mount away from the pulley to give enough room to squeeze the belt through. I used same method to squeeze new belt in place. After that, I got both belts back in place. Then, tightened the upper right bolt (to engine), then put in new motor mount. Had difficulty installing new mount because engine had shifted toward the front of the car (slightly). I tightened (but not torqued) one vertical bolt to keep in place. With help of neighbor, pushed motor back w/ pry bar. Got 5" rod in place, then (using pry bar) positioned mount to get last vertical bolt in place. Tightened all bolts, lowered engine. Installed lower bolt and sleeve (no problem - no need for grinding). Put splash guard back on.

Sorry for the details, but I know this will help someone else who is doing this project someday.
Old 02-22-2007, 03:35 PM
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I hate to re-hash old threads, but two weeks ago, I was 30 minutes from home when I noticed I lost all boost. When floored, I could only get to -1 maybe 0 on the dial. When I got home, I popped the hood and noticed the most forward (front of the car) pulley {idler pulley?} on the supercharger belt/drive decided to sieze up on me. The plastic pulley meted from the Goodyear Gatorback belt. Amazingly, the belt fell off and was not thrown into the main pulley system (which powered me home). To my surprise, the belt went unscaved!! I had a buddy drive me to Napa to get $18 replacement and installed it minutes. The pulley is sealed so, there'* no way to lube them up (in case anyone reading this was wondering).
Old 02-22-2007, 04:38 PM
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All of our idler pulleys have sealed bearings. That particular pulley is somewhat notorious for failure when you get up in odometer readings. Glad your belt survived.
Old 10-03-2007, 09:47 AM
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Can you guess what failed again?!? The tesnioner pulley bearing siezed up causing the belt to pop off. Luckily, the belt went unscaved. This time, I went to advanced auto parts and picked up a different manufacturer. This one is the same size, but made out of metal and not plastic. We'll see how long this one lasts.

EDIT - last one to fail was the idler pulley, this one was the tensioner pulley (in between SC and most forward idler pulley). The one that failed was plastic, the new one is metal.
Old 10-03-2007, 12:42 PM
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Last thing I'd like to do is cause you pain and agony. However it should be suggested that you look at all pullies. Your sig says 130K, I'm assuming it'* slightly higher by now.

Especially check that pulley behind the mount. The one you have to slide the belt past to get it in or out. To change that pulley you pull the motor side of the mount, and it'* a pain. It is less painful than breaking down from it though.
Old 10-03-2007, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Last thing I'd like to do is cause you pain and agony. However it should be suggested that you look at all pullies. Your sig says 130K, I'm assuming it'* slightly higher by now.

Especially check that pulley behind the mount. The one you have to slide the belt past to get it in or out. To change that pulley you pull the motor side of the mount, and it'* a pain. It is less painful than breaking down from it though.


also replace the water pump while you are in there. Best $40 you'll spend
Old 10-03-2007, 12:52 PM
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http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=47279

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=43997


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