thanks will,
but i dont know if its the blower motor because when i put it on high it makes the noise like it would have on high, but the flow just isnt there.

also last night i went to walmart and picked up a digital muli-meter for $20, now would anyone be able to explain how i measure the electricity or whatever for the motor?

Sure. Find the electrical leads to the motor. Unplug them. Turn your multimeter on to read DC voltage, somewhere in the range of 0 to 25 volts. Check the multimeter manual to figure out the correct setting and where to put the wires.

Turn on the ignition to run and set your fan at its highest setting. Touch the red probe to the contact in the harness with the purple wire, and the black probe to the contact with the black wire. Be careful not to jumper the black with the purple contacts. Tell us what the voltage is.

i dont have the time today, but at my job yesterday ( i work at a trucking company) one of the mechanics was saying that he didnt think it would be the blower motor, he thought it would be either a switch or something else i cant remember, i think it started with a "r" or something....

if i get some time today i'll try and test it quick.

"Relay," maybe? The highest blower speed on older manual-control cars used a relay, so that the dashboard fan switch wouldn't melt under the load, but I don't think that'* true in your case since you're hearing the fan blowing already; when the high-speed bypass relay failed on older cars, the blower would go completely dead when HIGH was selected.

Anyhow, I'm wondering if you don't actually have a duct switching problem instead, so the blower is moving air but the air can't get into the car.

1) Do you have the electronic (i.e. vacuum fluorescent dash display) or the manual-**** controls?

2) Aside from the airflow being weak, can you still direct it to the various ducts? (i.e. windshield defrosters; dashboard vents; floor heater outlet) If the dash display indicates that the dashboard vents should be blowing air, but it'* coming out the defroster or heater ducts instead, you've lost the vacuum needed for the duct controllers. Check the black plastic reservoir connections under the hood on the firewall next to the master cylinder brake booster.

3) So does the car start now, or is that still screwed up as well? If so, maybe something'* left disconnected on the firewall fuse/relay panel. (Did you remember to reattach the large power cable to the bolt at top center of the relay panel?)