Hi guys, I checked under the hood today because the coolant gauge was slightly above 200F and I noticed immediately that the coolant reservoir bottle was empty.
I waited for the car to cool down and then opened the Radiator cap.
The radiator was about a quart low. I used a 1/2gallon to fill radiator and reservoir.

I then drove the car about 50 miles. When I got home I checked all hose connections and found no external leaks. The lower K-frame(not sure on name) under the motor was wet. It was raining all day so I will have to wait until tomorrow to see if there is an external leak.

Tomorrow I am doing a baseline DYNO test before I tune or mod the car to document any gains. I will explain the coolant situation prior to the test and see if they still want to do it or if they want to try to pinpoint down the leak first.

Hopefully it is something simple like radiator core seeping or water pump. Hopefully not a head gasket leak.

I will report back tomorrow after the test(if they do it)
The test cost $75 for 3 passes on the machine. That will give me the numbers to start with.

Once the coolant leak is determined what/where it is it will be repaired immediately.

check your oil... sounds like the LIM :?

Checked oil right away and there is no contamination of water in oil.
Same with antifreeze, no oil in radiator.

I thought LIM gasket because I saw alot of them were replaced in threads here.
That job looks easier than head gaskets. LOL

If your coolant is low and your oil looks fine, you're combusting it. The coolant has breached the LIM gaskets at the LIM/Head coolant ports, and is being injested at the intake ports and burnt off.

www.zillamotorsports.com/dex

Replace your LIM gaskets before it gets worse and costs you your entire motor.

So, this means the SC has to come off, along with the intake manifold. That means feul rails too. Linkages for throttle and sensors/brackets also.

Fun project to learn on. How long does this job take to do and is there any machine work involved? (incase something is warped?)

Looks like I will need a repair manual and some more tools.

I will double check tomorrow while at the shop. I wonder if the old owner knew?

No machining, nothing will be warped.

You need a torque wrench capable of 10-20 ft-lbs.

A manual would help.

You need a LIM gasket set (all 4 pieces), a SC gasket, 2 yellow o-rings, fuel injector o-rings, and a TB gasket (if you plan to take advantage of the TB/MAF techinfo at the same time).

The Fel-Pro set if I'm not mistaken will provide you with everything but the fuel injector o-rings and TB gasket.

You will need 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets. Nothing else. You'll learn how to double-nut the stud in the nosedrive that goes through the accessory bracket. Also a good time to replace the SC coupler.

I will order the coupler from Intense.
I think they have one for my car...
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...3800_Induction

LMK, if that is the wrong one.

Is the Fel-Pro kit one with the aluminum lined gaskets? Or do I have to get a GM one?
Does Intense make one for my car in a kit that I could order with the coupler?

Aluminum isn't available for the Series 1, nor is it necessary. Your car never saw DEX. INTENSE sells no gaskets for you other than for the thermostat.

Buy Fel-Pro from Rock Auto using our discount code in General Chat.

Yes, that'* the right coupler. You also need one bottle of GM oil (or half the INTENSE bottle, save the rest for spare) and some red gasket maker (INTENSE).

So, go with the 180F t-stat also?
Thanks for the discount

Sure. Get the INTENSE it flows more than anything you can buy locally.