Emission Test Failed!
04-02-2006, 10:48 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by GAMEOVER
Originally Posted by faisalmali
Originally Posted by GAMEOVER
replace the BCV
the boost control solenoid is the is right next to the black plunger with a vacuum line going to the plunger
I'll try to do a search, but you probably don't have a part number off hand, would you?
04-02-2006, 09:43 PM
#12
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True Car Nut
I believe that they have used the same part for years, and if so, the part number for a 2000 is: Actuator 12371988 $200.43.
At that cost, a junkyard part would look very tempting. Of course, the GMPartsDirect cost would be less.
At that cost, a junkyard part would look very tempting. Of course, the GMPartsDirect cost would be less.
04-03-2006, 08:41 AM
#16
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Posted on another Forum by me just a couple weeks ago. Maybe this will help:
The BCA won't be an issue unless they actually had the car in a drive gear for the test.
I just went out to verify a couple things on my own car to help out here, and wouldn't you know, both my cars reacted OPPOSITE each other. Some idiot forgot to hook the solonoid up on my 95 the last time he was taking resistance readings for some poor schmuck on the Bonneville Forum. Embarassed
Anyway, neat trick here:
Disconnect the top vacuum line (at idle) from the Boost Bypass Actuator. It should move from Bypass (extended) to Boost (retracted). If it does, it'* doing what you're telling it to do. Usually means that the solonoid is bad.
Another test is to disconnect (at idle) the electrical connector for the Solonoid. The actuator should also move. Same result. If the Actuator moves it'* full travel when you 'trick' it, the solonoid (or wiring or PCM command) is suspect.
However, if the actuator doesn't move smoothly and quickly to it'* fullest extent, get out some carb cleaner and spray it on the actuator, particularly the crimp (not crimpton) that holds the two halves of the body together (at idle). Does your idle change? How about the ends of the vacuum fittings to the lower portion of the actuator body? If the actuator isn't moving when and how it'* commanded quickly and fully, you either have a bad actuator (typically a body vac leak) or a vacuum leak. If it'* intermittent, the leak is dictated by engine temp.
_________________
Anyway, neat trick here:
Disconnect the top vacuum line (at idle) from the Boost Bypass Actuator. It should move from Bypass (extended) to Boost (retracted). If it does, it'* doing what you're telling it to do. Usually means that the solonoid is bad.
Another test is to disconnect (at idle) the electrical connector for the Solonoid. The actuator should also move. Same result. If the Actuator moves it'* full travel when you 'trick' it, the solonoid (or wiring or PCM command) is suspect.
However, if the actuator doesn't move smoothly and quickly to it'* fullest extent, get out some carb cleaner and spray it on the actuator, particularly the crimp (not crimpton) that holds the two halves of the body together (at idle). Does your idle change? How about the ends of the vacuum fittings to the lower portion of the actuator body? If the actuator isn't moving when and how it'* commanded quickly and fully, you either have a bad actuator (typically a body vac leak) or a vacuum leak. If it'* intermittent, the leak is dictated by engine temp.
_________________
04-03-2006, 02:46 PM
#17
Senior Member
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emission
clean all the throttle body sensors and the 'EGR as stated. Have you checked the PCV and other common items. Also check TPS voltage, take the 02 out and look at the tip.
Should be chalky whitish. If not replace it.
Should be chalky whitish. If not replace it.
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