My car is a 93 SE. Okay I've had my car in the shop for about 2 weeks now and after one week it was apparently fixed with a replacment of the ignition system (that vats wire broke) which was triggering the VATS. The car would turn over and almost start and then would die... so I get it back and it drives beautifully for 2 days. Only drove it 3 times.

3rd day rolls around and I get in to go to the store and I turn the key and nothing, absolutely nothing happens.... although the security light stays illuminated for 2 or 3 minutes after the car is off now. I call the gyu that fixed it and he said it is probably an unrelated issue (which I thought odd he would know so fast without looking at it). I look around for fuses and clean my key just in case and nothing... so I end up having it towed back to him. He has been looking at it since monday and first said that he couldnt figure out the wiring... he then went to explain that he thinks one wire was installed wrong because of the shitty wiring diagrams they used from O'Rellys or autozone. So I called him earlier around 2:30pm and he says he still hasnt figured out the wiring.

I call him again about 30 minutes ago and he said they found out the problem was due to a module that had failed (there are 5 he said) and was related to the security system which is keepign the car from starting. I would have to get a new one he says. All before this I was assuming that he would fix it for free. I ask him if the first repair caused the second problem and he tells me no but it is an odd coincidence... Tells me that the module may have already been failed before the first repair and that it just now quit working (whatever the hell that means). Module cost 300 had dealers he says and that he hopes to get one for 100 at a salvage.

Do you guys have any ideas or comments? Is this really feasible. I never had any problem at all with my car startign before those wires broke in my ignition and now the entire module is bad right after I had it worked on.

sounds like he broke it...but I dont know for sure.

here is a pic and some info

Thanks guys,

Have you ever heard of anything similiar to this? Doesn't it seem odd that it broke all of a sudden after an initial repair... is there a way that installing the wires incorrectly could of caused a feedback burning out the VATS module? Do you know how much they usually cost?

I've got another question... when I got the first repair I had to buy a new key because they said the old one wouldn't work anymore because the resistence value had changed... but doesn't the resistance value only change if you change the vats module?

Also is the vats module called a body control module or are those seperate?

ok the should have used a resistor that was the same value as your key and then the Resistor in the key would have been bypassed

there should have been no reason for a new key unless your key was damaged....

Ah because the key design would have been different... because of the new ignition... man I asked him to just freaking bypass the thing oh well... he said it caused problems when you do that...

well the design of the Key is not different......there are 15 different values FYI....and yes he should have bypassed it and there is NO issues what soever with bypassing the VATS

I had talked to him before I knew anything about this stuff. He said the car would shut off after 30 minutes or soemthing and that he had tried to bypass it before and it wouldnt work right. Do you know where a wiring diagram could be found for this ignition so I could see how it could possibily screwed up when installing?

to bypass the system and take the Key out of the picture a Correct resistor needs to be place inline of the wires....the car will start and run everytime...(this is what is done when a remote starter is used so the car can start without the key) ....it really sounds like this guy has no clue or experience with the VATS system