Originally Posted by cvc
ok here is the latest. I took the glove box out and looked in the hole at the rod that opens and closes the mixing door. Here is what I came up with, in the fan high position the door goes to hot no problem, if you try to go down to cold it stops about half way, if you reach in with a screwdriver and give it just alittle push it continues all the way to cold. NOW; if you turn the fan setting to lowest spot and repeat the above all works fine. It is almost like maybe a vaccum problem or something doesn't hve enoug strength to push the door shut against a hi fan speed ? I see no way of getting at the motor that drives the rod at all without a sawzalll or chain sawing the dash out ! Wher is the vaccum line that operates that door ? Or where does it pull vaccum from ? There is no vaccum box next to the brake master cyl. The temp still flashes for awhile and then stops. This ALL started when my starter switch fried and I left the battery disconnected overnight. Never had this issue before. I hate to put alot of cash into a car with 200k plus miles but maybe its something simple ??
Thanks guys and lets hear some feedback !
Given the above information, I'd be willing to bet Boosty'* pink slip that you have a failing air mix actuator. When the plastic gear inside the airmix actuator starts to crack, things get real sketchy with the ECC and it becomes rather unpredictable.
There is no vaccuum that goes to that motor, it'* all electric. If it'* stopping in mid-swing, the gear is slipping on the drive shaft. This may sound Greek to you, but if you check out the article on this link, you can see some pictures. You can change this motor without cutting, drilling, or removing the dash - the procedure is in the article. It'* a PITA at times, but can be done.