Need help on this one ASAP.

I drove one trip of probably about 15-20 miles today, let it sit for 3 or 4 hours, and drove another 5 miles. Without shutting the car off, I went to reverse and I heard the CHECK GAUGE beep, looked down and the car had stalled. It stalled once a few days ago during a long trip when I hit a long line for an exit ramp, but it started right back up.

Anyway, not a battery issue. New battery installed in July. Tried to jump it for giggles, no effect. Getting strong clicking from the starter/solenoid. The serpentine drive belt appears to be turning freely when the starter is engaging. However, the starter never seems to catch. The RPM meter stays at 0.

I have had a no 12x pulse SES code from the ICM. Would this cause a no start issue? The car just stalled a few minutes ago. It'* outside a coworker'* house so I haven't had a chance to do much troubleshooting, but I'll need to be able to troubleshoot as much as I can tomorrow to try avoid getting it towed to a shop.

Here'* a brief history. It'* always started a little hard since I bought it this summer. New alternator, battery, and starter. Fuel filter was changed just after I bought it. Air filter was changed not long after that. Oil and filter was just changed within the past few weeks. All fluid levels are good.

I installed a remote starter / keyless entry earlier this week. It could be connected, but it had been starting completely fine since the install. A number of electrical items did stop functioning after the install, but I assumed it was just some fuses that needed replacing because my crimping tool contacted the frame while crimping one of the wires. I have not had a chance to check the fuses yet, but the items that stopped include blower motor/climate control, rear defrost, turn signals, cruise control, hazards. I know, not the safest thing to be driving.

I'm leaning toward ICM or fuel pump. I say this because of the history of starting hard despite replacing all of the filters and starting components. Please help!

Check all your fuses. That'* one easy thing we can eliminate. 3 locations. Engine bay, passenger side kick panel and another one just below the steering column.

Check the battery cables, clean both ends of both cables. If you do a jump and hardly cranks then the cable is corroded at the starter and or block.

Battery connections were in good condition. Removed and cleaned and rejumped. No luck.

To clarify, the engine is cranking just not starting.

I did not find any fuses that appeared to be blown. Should I run a continuity test on them? It would be pretty apparent if they were blown I feel like.

I also bought a fuel pressure gauge and had the ICM tested. Fuel pressure measured about 42 psi at the schraeder valve. ICM tested good.

Check to see if your fuel pump is priming prior to attempting to start.

Can you elaborate on how to do this?

Now that I think about it.. it was accelerating very slowly from a stop the past few days. The engine would have to hit about 3000 RPMs until it really started to move. Could this be just a plug/wire or ignition coil?

No problem.

Leave drivers side door open.
While leaning out the door, turn key to "ON" position. Don't try to start it.
You should here a whine type noise coming from the rear underside of the car. It should last about 2 seconds.
If you hear it, then its working. We just eliminated the typical ground bus issue.
On to the next one.

If you could, give us a run down list of what you have done, ie. replaced fuel filter, changed plugs, whatever.