Looking on rockauto.com, there is a switch listed for the automatic lights, but its about $170. My internet isn't cooperating with me tonight, and won't let me open that site again to look at it, but I doubt its worth it to you to spend that money on something like that. I know I wouldn't. haha.

Yikes. Thats a bit steep for me being too lazy to flip a switch for my lights. I'll have to checkout Amazon and similar. The problem is everyone just gives part numbers and no details about the parts.

It seems you were (hopefully) right about a connection issue as well, or my alternator gave out. Or driving with the loose connection caused my alternator to go out. Only time will tell. About to go take everything off and reseat and try to track someone down to give her a jump.

My car kept getting down to about 8 V on the way home last night (just barely enough to stay on, in fact, it turns off the radio and other unnecesarry things at that point). I was able to keep it going for a few miles by pulling off to the side of the road and playing with the positive alternator connection on the alternator. Lights would jump right back up, I'd start to drive, right back down. So I gave up and had AAA tow it back here. Something about playing with that positive alternator cable in the rain without gloves which is incredibly close to the block just didn't feel right. So there is a chance I overworked it and it'* dead now. But hey! It'* under warranty, it was worth a shot

you shouldnt be able to play with the alt cable and have it make a difference. it may be corroded inside or loose

Charging problems seem to be fixed. took apart and reconnected everything. I think the problem was either the negative battery cable our the ground bolts being dirty. The negative battery cable head near a 90 degree bend on the block end terminal. It was still a continuous piece, but metal that thick never does well with bends. Also, everyone always talks about cleaning the cable connections, but no one ever mentions cleaning the ground bolts themselves. my cables were clean as could be, but unless you remove the bolts to inspect them you don't see all the dirt and oil that build up in the threads and in the nut. So I took those out and soaked them in degreaser and used a wire brush on them. I replaced negative battery cable, and also got gold crimp connectors for the small grounds underneath the icm (five wires total). I soldered some of these wires together to use three crimp connectors, crimped them on, then soldered the tip of the wires to the connector for good conductivity. I drove 45 min, mostly highway speeds with very little signs of issue. I occasionally had just a little bouncing at idle, maybe 100-300 mV, but that little bouncing could just be noise on the line too I suspect. Everything seems good for that. So back to the dimmer switch.

Anyone know a good part for less than $170 for automatic lights?

the bolts are just as important as the cables and ends, they have to carry the current into the chassis. current doesnt go through paint either. i would put something over the connections to keep the corrosion out now

I was able to get a hold of the automatic switch standard motor products DS657 for $42 on Amazon. I emailed the guy to make sure it was brand new, never installed. He says he just got a bunch of them cheap and has surplus. 17 left! If you need an automatic one you won't beat this deal.

That'* great! I'm glad you found a great deal. Much better than the $170 haha

You and me both. I'll probably install over the long turkey weekend and will try to take a few pictures as well

I had the same problem in my Bonnie SSEi '92, but had no chance to replace the whole switch.
At different dimmer positions, there were shorts: the wire (*. image) got the full power and glowed, the panel lights stay dark.
I fixed the position of the dimmer on the leftmost position --> the panel lights stay at maximum brightness.
The automatic lights option - if present at all - stays untouched.