busa, we need you to edit your profile and add your year and model in your signature. We have no clue what year (assuming 92-99 which had 4 different engines).

Once we find out what you have, we can help you scan for codes in order to possibly rule out the CPS or anything else. Your location (city) in your profile may help also, in case we have a member nearby with a scantool (chances of this are pretty high).

I'm a bit confused. You think it'* the crank sensor..but you have spark?

Crank sensor kills the spark. You have fuel on the plugs..and spark...what is keeping that fuel from igniting?

Bill, when I got the car it would not start. So I tested all the coils with a meter to see if the windings were good. They were all good except the 2 and 5 cyl one. I replaced that and took a plug out only to find they were covered in fuel. I took a plug from my GTO and a wire and tested all of the cyl. to see if each one would fire and they all did. I changed the plugs and it started but had some choppy idle and was blowing heavy white smoke out the exhaust. I think it was trying to get that built up fuel out of there what do you think? The lady I got the car from said a garage had told her she needed a O2 sensor, but that would not let the car start would it? And then I checked some old posts and some one had said when their car would get hot the engine would not restart for a while. Then the trick with pouring water on the CPS may take car of it, what if my car has the same symptoms(CPS getting hot) and not letting it spark and fouling the plugs each time this happens. The lady gave me her old reciepts and she had the plugs changed quite a bit in a short period of time. I guess that was the garage'* solution each time. When the car would not start I ran a OBD2 scanner with no exceptions. Tell me what you guys think, I just finished replacing the CPS and now the belt needs attention It is rotted pretty bad!! Any Ideas on that job? It looks like I have to take the engine mount off is this true? Thanks in advance for the reply.

BELT - No you do not need to remove the mount. you will notice there are 3 legs on that engine mount that is in the way. The lower leg needs to come off. Removing the whole mount is a pain and more work than needed.More on that in a second...
White smoke/wet plugs - Sounds like there is antifreeze getting into the combustion chambers. You may have bad head gaskets or possibly a cracked head or block. More on that in a sec...

How to replace the belt -
You will need a small flathead, either an E-12 or E14 external torx socket [I forget exactly, autozone has a set for $8 with 4 sizes], a ratchet, and a 15 mm socket or wrench, needle nose pliers. New belt, preferably gatorback.
1) turn wheels to extreme right or remove passenger front wheel.
2) Remove 2 tabs that hold the front lower fender cover. [needle pliers]
3) Make sure you have something showing the belt routing, don't assume you will remember how to re-route it. [owners manual may have a diagram, check it against your engine JUST to be sure it is identical Do not trust the diagrams on the belt packaging.]
4) Using the 15 mm, turn the belt tensioner to loosen the belt, and slip it off the tensioner.
5) Below the leg of the engine mount you must remove, there is the crank sensor. Disconnect the plug with flathead so it will not be in the way.
6) It is not necessary to remove the nut around the torx bolt. Remove this torx bolt [with the e12 or e14..]
7) Now the spacer must come out. Move it upward and work it out, it is a little stubborn.
Now remove the old belt.
9)Now would be a good time to make sure all the pulleys Except the crankshaft are spinning smooth and are not wobbily.

Installation is the reverse of removal, except these things -
Make VERY sure the belt is seated well on all pulleys. Now double check.
When working the engine mount leg spacer back in, it is even more stubborn. The side of it away from the engine, you may have to lightly tap it back in with an extension and a small hammer. Some folks recommend rounding the edges of the spacer.
It is more of a pain in the *** than complicated to do this job.

Gasket/crack block - To check the compression of the engine you will need a compression tester. They are not real expensive. They just screw into the spark plug holes. Look more for uniformity between cylinders than a specific psi. 5 cylinders with 120 psi and one cylinder with 50 psi means there is a problem. The results of this test are more accurate when the engine is warm.

Also, you just might have the notorious problem of a bad upper intake manifold [UIM]

There are numerous threads about that, in fact I think there is a sticky - "failed upper intake? sound off..."

I'll almost guarantee you have a LIM failure. You've put a L36 in your sig, which is a non-Supercharged (ie NA - naturally aspirated) engine.

You have the EXACT same symptoms as I did. Replacing plugs will get it to run for a short bit, but then the coolant will destroy the plugs in short order.

My UIM was fine, but my LIM had a nice hole in it, letting coolant flood the engine.

Would this cause your motor to lock up?

Ohhh yeah.

I just changed the oil also, and found no signs of water in it. The dipstick smells of fuel thats why I changed it.

If it were the LIM, wouldnt there be noticable water in the oil?