Need Help . Car won't start. - FIXED
#1
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Need Help . Car won't start. - FIXED
Hi.
Today I was removing throttle body for cleaning and changing TPS.
Everything went well and after I put it vack I started car. I works for a minute or so and then when I pressed gas pedal it chocked,some little clout of white smoke was under a hood and it stalled.
I tried to start,some moments it looks like it wanted to start but it didn't.
I recall when I was remowing back stud for throttle bracket and heat shild I was leaning near fuel line and smelled gasoline.
I looked and there was a little gas spot near connector between injector'* fuel rail and fuel line because I probably touched it.
I killed battery and it'* charging now.
I tried to bleed rail to see if there is a fuel and there was just a few drops in it.
What did I toched or disconnected I have no idea.
Everything seems to be connected but I suspect is something with that fuel pressure regulator or maybe fuse to fuel pump blowed when I was connecting battery after repair?
Any idea would be appreciated. Need the car to drive to work and it screwed me up.
Thanks in advance
Today I was removing throttle body for cleaning and changing TPS.
Everything went well and after I put it vack I started car. I works for a minute or so and then when I pressed gas pedal it chocked,some little clout of white smoke was under a hood and it stalled.
I tried to start,some moments it looks like it wanted to start but it didn't.
I recall when I was remowing back stud for throttle bracket and heat shild I was leaning near fuel line and smelled gasoline.
I looked and there was a little gas spot near connector between injector'* fuel rail and fuel line because I probably touched it.
I killed battery and it'* charging now.
I tried to bleed rail to see if there is a fuel and there was just a few drops in it.
What did I toched or disconnected I have no idea.
Everything seems to be connected but I suspect is something with that fuel pressure regulator or maybe fuse to fuel pump blowed when I was connecting battery after repair?
Any idea would be appreciated. Need the car to drive to work and it screwed me up.
Thanks in advance
#2
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Let'* start by cleaning the battery connections, remove the rubber boots to properly clean the cable ends. Next check all the fuses. Fuel pump fuse (#6?) is on the passenger side. After that check the ground bus on both sides of the car. Let us know what you find.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Let'* start by cleaning the battery connections, remove the rubber boots to properly clean the cable ends. Next check all the fuses. Fuel pump fuse (#6?) is on the passenger side. After that check the ground bus on both sides of the car. Let us know what you find.
I didn't check all fuses ,but fuel pump fuse is OK.
I checked alteary.
Grounds are OK too.
I went to the store and bought fuel pressure gauge.
As soon as I turn ignition ON it shows 40 Psi pressure so fuel is present in a rail.
I tried to start again and it feels like it wants to catch it but can't.
Another question.
Is it possible that faulty TPS prevent a car from starting, or let'* say one of the bolts on throttle body isn't tight enough?
Thanks for reply by the way.
After tomorrow I will have a bigger job to change accessories bracket.
My is cracked and one tensioner is off the vehicle right now.
It'* without water pump belt at present but it' has nothing with starting car I guess.
Right before I removed TB it was starting perfectly and after I put TB back it started too and then suddenly.....
I put on it used TPS.My was shorting at WOT so I'm not 100% sure it couse present situation.
But I tried to start it couple of times with disconnected TPS and I tried with disconnected MAF.
Same story.
Edit: Forgot to say,while crankin engine ,fuel pressure remained the same 40 PSI ,maybe with some little unnoticed variation.
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One more question.
Is it possible that air got into the rail and it prevents starting ?
Or after cranking long enough it suppose to push that air out?
The reason I'm asking when I bleed fuel after checking pressure (gauge has a clear bleeding tube) there were pockets of air betveen fuel.
Is it possible that air got into the rail and it prevents starting ?
Or after cranking long enough it suppose to push that air out?
The reason I'm asking when I bleed fuel after checking pressure (gauge has a clear bleeding tube) there were pockets of air betveen fuel.
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If a TPS shorts out & reads WOT then the PCM will disable the fuel injectors. I tried unplugging the TPS when we had our 89 & it would start. I haven't tried it on the 99 yet but would expect the same result.
See if the fuel pressure holds for 10 minutes with the key off. I'd check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders & see what the plugs look like.
See if the fuel pressure holds for 10 minutes with the key off. I'd check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders & see what the plugs look like.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
If a TPS shorts out & reads WOT then the PCM will disable the fuel injectors. I tried unplugging the TPS when we had our 89 & it would start. I haven't tried it on the 99 yet but would expect the same result.
See if the fuel pressure holds for 10 minutes with the key off. I'd check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders & see what the plugs look like.
See if the fuel pressure holds for 10 minutes with the key off. I'd check for spark at each of the 3 front cylinders & see what the plugs look like.
I will check sparks tomorrow.
It was holding pressure for 5-7 min ,during that time dropped a little to 37 PSi.
I didn't wait longer.
Tomorrow will check again.
I'm still inclined to think about screwing something when working on throttle body.
Just can't figure what.
#7
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Check your TPS installation. On the Series 1, it'* possible to install the sensor with the throttle shaft pin on the wrong side of the sensor actuator arm. The pin should be resting against the curved face of the sensor arm.
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I did pay attention to it when installing replacement TPS .
And I tried to start with disconnected sensor.
I will probably jump outside one more time with scanner to check if there is any codes stored.
But check engine light was off. Just have two more days to fix this thing.
Wednesday evening gotta drive to work. (I wish).
Tanks for reply.
And I tried to start with disconnected sensor.
I will probably jump outside one more time with scanner to check if there is any codes stored.
But check engine light was off. Just have two more days to fix this thing.
Wednesday evening gotta drive to work. (I wish).
Tanks for reply.
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Ok.Just checked it with scaner.
No codes stored. Checked for sparks.
It'* present.
Cranked few times. Smell of gas (probably overflowed).
Must be something obvious and in the same time hard to find.
Will continue tomorrow along with removing old accessory bracket and preparing to install replacement.
Damn,why would I want to remove that freakin' trottle body
Everything worked just fine besides occasional TPS low voltage code.
I could live with that for a while.
No codes stored. Checked for sparks.
It'* present.
Cranked few times. Smell of gas (probably overflowed).
Must be something obvious and in the same time hard to find.
Will continue tomorrow along with removing old accessory bracket and preparing to install replacement.
Damn,why would I want to remove that freakin' trottle body
Everything worked just fine besides occasional TPS low voltage code.
I could live with that for a while.
#10
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If you're flooded, hold the gas pedal to the floor (100% tps). That will disable the fuel injector pulse. Crank the engine a few rotations (5 seconds at a time, repeat 10 times) to clear out any fuel.
Then try to start. Did that help?
Flooding can be caused by a leaky FPR (pull the vacuum line off the fpr and smell for fuel) or a leaking injector (cannot be tested on the car).
Then try to start. Did that help?
Flooding can be caused by a leaky FPR (pull the vacuum line off the fpr and smell for fuel) or a leaking injector (cannot be tested on the car).