What about this tube for the CAI instead of the rice pipe from Autozone?
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...3800_Induction

I see some people using them already.
I am thinking 3' wil be plenty of the 3" size.
Would that be correct?
Which should I do when I do the LIM cuz I am going to CAI while I am there?

You will need some sort of 3" tubing (short pieces) to join to the reducer at the TB and to the filter as well.

The LIM has nothing to do with a CAI or FWI. I'm not sure what you're asking.

Sorry about confusing topic.
I was going to do the CAI project while I did the LIM.

New update as of today. I took the car to the shop for the DYNO test, but(and I already new this but just wanted to stop by anyway) they said they would not DYNO a car if it was not in proper running condition. They looked at the car and found Antifreeze coming out from under the water pump bracket where I did not see it. It seems the water pump is leaking.

They suggested after I repair the water pump to do a leak down test by pressurizing the system and see if the gauge falls. If it passes this test and I am confident in the motor they will give me a baseline run on the DYNO.

They recommended that I do a compression test. I paid $60 for this to be done when they(another shop) checked the fuel pump, changed fuel filter, and fixed power antenna and said it was all good and that there was no problems. They did not give me a cylinder by cylinder set of numbers though. My Bro-in-law has a compression test kit and will do it with me in a couple of weekends from now. I will post those results.

I will change the water pump on Thursday. Looked easy enough. Pump new is only $36.

Will let you guys know how it goes after I put the pump in.

I was under the impression you were LOSING coolant. If that'* true, and it'* not leaking on the ground, it'* not the water pump.

Because it had been raining the past 2 days I did not see any coolant dripping from the car.(was being rinsed away or washed away from splashing under the car) I looked from the top and saw nothing. But today we checked from under the car and the coolant is coming out under the water pump and dripping into the cross member.
I lost about 2/3 of a full reservoir today.

They also explained that if in fact I do get a leak of coolant into the engine not to drive because I could bend a connecting rod or worse.

The water pump is the #1 priority as of today'* discovery from looking at the car in the air on the rack.

I will figure out if more work is needed after I install the pump and then check the system for leaks with the coolant pump/gauge kit that attaches to the radiator where the cap goes.

I may still replace the intake gaskets for maintenance because of the age of the car.

Good. Just making sure. I have a quest to keep these things running.

Change your water pump and keep a SHARP eye on it. You are overdue on the gaskets, so plan that SOON regardless of the pump fix.

Ha Ha Ha!!! The joke was on me today!!!
I did the water pump with a buddy today. WOW!

Pros to doing this job myself...
1. saved a ton of money...$340
2. Engine bay was clean so didn't get too dirty

Cons to do ing this myself...
ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!
1. Chiltons manual is ridicoulous. Remove parts 86-94, remove parts VIN 1 95 and up.
Someone needs to tell them 94 is same as 95.
2. How many things do you take off to remove a water pump on a supercharged 3.8?
Answer...everything! LOL
3. Took 6 hours to do.
Wen together 10x'* faster than coming apart.
4. Burping the coolant to get air out takes much longer than burping a baby!

What a job! I had no idea how much there was to do to remove the water pump that sits right on top. That was crazy! I totally underestimated the difficulty level there. 1-4 I would say a 3.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in 4 hours.

Got all the air out, no leaks and temp stable at 200F.
Still need to get 180F t-stat from Intense and some other parts.
Glad it was the water pump and even happier it is done and repaired.

Congratulations on a job well done!

When you go to install the new thermostat, this procedure will minimize trapped air in the engine, and make bleeding go a lot quicker.

1. Get new seals for the thermostat.
2. If the new thermostat does not come with an air bleed, drill a small (1/16") hole in the flange - like this:
3. Drain a gallon of coolant by siphoning using a small diameter (1/4") hose long enough to be slipped to the bottom of the rad side tank with the other end placed into the bottom of a clean gallon jug sitting on the ground. If you use clear vinyl hose, you will be able to see the coolant coming as you suck the air out of the hose to start the siphon, and avoid getting coolant in your mouth. This method will also keep the coolant perfectly clean so that you can re-use it. If the siphon does not break (stop by itself) before the gallon jug fills, pull the hose up from the bottom of the radiator to stop the siphon. One gallon removed from the system will drop the coolant level enough to change the thermostat.
4. Make sure the bleeder screw will open and close properly.
5. After removing the old thermostat, clean the sealing surfaces taking care not to let debris fall into the thermostat opening.
6. Re-fill the engine with coolant at the thermostat housing until the coolant rises to the thermostat seat.
7. Then, pour coolant into the radiator slowly. You should see air bubbles coming out of the engine at the thermostat opening. Continue filling at the radiator until the coolant level at the thermostat opening begins to overflow.
8. Install the drilled thermostat with the hole at the high point in the opening.
9. Install the upper radiator hose.
10. Finish filling at the radiator, waiting for a few minutes each time coolant reaches the overflow opening in the radiator filler neck until the coolant level no longer falls.
11. Install radiator cap.
12. Fill overflow (expansion) tank to "full hot" or a couple inches above.
13. Start engine. Go for a ride to quickly bring temp up until thermostat opens (top radiator hose hot).
14. With car idling and at operating temperature, open bleeder and rev engine at throttle linkage to about 2K several times. Only coolant should come out of the bleeder.
15. Watch coolant level in expansion tank. Level should stabilize within several days.

Congratulations on replacing the water pump.
It took me roughly 5 1/2 hrs to do it on my '93 SSEi, and I wouldn't want to have to do it again anytime soon.

Thanks for the tips and congrats guys!

I noticed driving in traffic that when the car sits for about 5-10 minutes in traffic it begins to run hot. All the air is out of the system and 150 miles have been put on the car since the replacement of the water pump.

Is the thermostat going bad? I am ordering a new 180F INTENSE on this weekend and will try to put it on next weekend.

What other reason would make it run hot?

I work in extremely hot environments(upto 150F ambient air temps) so A/C will be very important in traffic this summer. For example, I don't even turn the heater on in the winter if it is above 40F outside. I am much more comfortable with the cold because of always working hot.

This means the car will have to run cooler than 215F with the A/C in traffic this summer.
I need to make sure things are OK and functioning properly.