Originally Posted by Teuobk
Supposedly boiling the lenses will allow easy removal of the orange filter.
Is the idea to break down the dye coloring of the plastic by extreme temperatures, or to get the seams to fall apart so the amber lens can be removed?
I've seen clear versions of some less-common GM taillights like a Caprice and an Astro van, and I couldn't believe that someone actually tooled up a production run of clear plastic in the original molds, so I was wondering if there was some bleaching process they can do instead.
Once the orange is removed, I recommend using LED lights to replace the bulbs: The LEDs are clear when off, but amber when on.
I don't think that'll work for you; the side markers bridge the turn-signal and parking lamp circuits, and operate on current flowing in either direction, from whichever circuit is hot to whichever circuit is not (the latter serves as a ground path). When both circuits are hot, the marker lamp goes out. This is how the side markers can flash with the turn signals when parking lights are not on, but _alternate_ with the turn signals when parking lights _are_ on.
But an LED only works to pass current through in one direction; when voltage is reversed, it won't light up. So you'll wind up with an LED that only blinks for turn signals, or only lights with parking lights, but won't do both.
In addition, the reason you can get Lamp Out warnings from the DIC is because the Adaptive Lamp Monitor Unit is seeing weird current flow on one or more circuits with those LEDs in place, and decides that one or more bulbs are out, and gives you the warning that you see.
In short, on some circuits, using LED bulbs will cause you more headaches than they're worth.