Hard Starting When Hot
#1
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Hard Starting When Hot
Newby question,
I have a '96 SE with a little over 326,000 miles on her, starts fine when cold, but hard to start when driving for awhile. When I try to restart, it takes 5-6 tries before she will fire.
Any suggestions???
I have a '96 SE with a little over 326,000 miles on her, starts fine when cold, but hard to start when driving for awhile. When I try to restart, it takes 5-6 tries before she will fire.
Any suggestions???
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Halifax Nova Scotia ASE Master Service Tech
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Every time when hot? Is it an extended crank before it will start? Do you have fuel pressure (check the schraeder valve on the rail)(Caution with a hot engine though, use a rag).
When the crank sensor is faulty it'* output will drop as it gets hotter until the point that it cannot open the zenor diodes within the ICM resulting in the car stalling and not starting again until it cools down.
First thing is finding out if it is fuel or spark that is not allowing it to start when hot. Have you checked for codes yet?
When the crank sensor is faulty it'* output will drop as it gets hotter until the point that it cannot open the zenor diodes within the ICM resulting in the car stalling and not starting again until it cools down.
First thing is finding out if it is fuel or spark that is not allowing it to start when hot. Have you checked for codes yet?
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by A Bonnie Canuck
Every time when hot? Is it an extended crank before it will start? Do you have fuel pressure (check the schraeder valve on the rail)(Caution with a hot engine though, use a rag).
So anyway, this is a quick easy check. With the engine off, locate the fuel-pressure regulator at one end of the fuel rail -- it'* a little round canister with one vacuum line attached -- and just unplug the vacuum line. If it pees gasoline at you, it'* leaking. (It won't come blasting out, but have a rag nearby anyway.) If there'* any gas present in the vacuum port, replace the regulator and you're all set.
#7
Senior Member
Expert Gearhead
No...open up the gas cap, located the schrader valive on your fuel rail, remove that cap, get a rag and a sharp tip instrument or tool. I used a mini Philips head screwdriver and push down on the nozzle. Cover it up with a cloth, fuel comes out of there at 35-40 psi
#8
326,000 on a an original Series II?!?!? That'* gotta be a record! Wonder how many upper intakes he'* gone through?!?! He can probably tell us who makes the best ones.
#10
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by CFoote
Andy stupid question.....can you replace the fuel pressure reguatlor without depressurizing the fuel system?
Of course, if the problem is a leaking pressure regulator, you won't _have_ pressure in the fuel system. Har!
So anyway, did you do the vacuum port check as I described, and find gasoline in there, or what?