1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

changing the brakes on the bonnie!

Old 06-18-2003, 02:03 PM
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LOL

I will warn you of one other trick the US is trying to do...that $#%^&&%$# coin. Ask any Alfa male Canadian how they feel about all the change they have to carry around and they will say AHHHHHHHHHHH. The coins are cheaper for the gov..but who wants a purse.. Canada now has the $1, $2 and they are working on a $5 coin.

So along with metric watch out for the coin push.

Ty
Old 06-18-2003, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DeathRat
Pretty simple really, remove tires, remove caliper mounting bolts, pull off caliper, remove rotor & machine if still within tolerances & replace the pads. Rears, pretty much the same, remove the drums & shoes & replace exactly to match the opposite side!
i would compress the piston before removing the caliper
Old 06-20-2003, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Originally Posted by Ol' Timer
Originally Posted by 95neongirl
Hey thanks..is that special 3/8 allen socket needed for my car?
I believe I you need a TORX Socket (T-50) to remove the Caliper.
If I remember wright, the 87-91 bonnies use the Torx, and the 92-99 bonnies use the 3/8 allen .....
so I'll need the 3/8ince I have a 94 right?

also is that the type socket (starsocket) that will fit on a rachet?

compressing the piston???is that the brake pads???

also are these the same instructions for the back brakes?

thanks
Old 06-20-2003, 12:44 PM
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The back brakes are sooo much more fun. Make sure you get the right tools for the back brakes. Any chances you get check your rear adjusters on the brakes. They come out of adjustment and cause your rear brakes to loosen up. If this happens your front brakes will be doing all the work to stop the car and cause the front rotors to warp.

Ty
Old 06-20-2003, 01:33 PM
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so I'll need the 3/8ince I have a 94 right?
Yes, you'll need a 3/8" Allen-head socket.


also is that the type socket (starsocket) that will fit on a rachet?
Yes, but you might want to initially put the 3/8" Allen-head socket on a Breaker Bar to loosen the Allen Bolt


compressing the piston???is that the brake pads???
Well, sort of. The Piston is behind the brake pad. I would loosen the bleeder valve first to make it easier to push the Piston back into the Caliper. Also this would prevent all the "crud" that'* in the caliper from being pushed back into the brake lines. You SHOULD bleed the brakes anyway after replacing the pads/shoes so opening up the lines at this time will make the job that much easier as well as force you to bleed the system(from the right rear first)

are these the same instructions for the back brakes?
No! The instructions found here

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/*.../frtbrake.html

are only for replacing the front disc pads. Those instructions are quite good, although I don't really see why they say to bleed the brakes Before AND After replacing the pads. Just bleed the system after your new front pads and rear shoes are on the car. Oh, and if your not sure of the correct procedure to bleed the brakes, make sure you ask in this forum(maybe one day they'll add that procedure in TechInfo)
Old 06-20-2003, 03:08 PM
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How do you go about checking/adjusting the back brakes? How will you know if they need adjusting???
Old 06-20-2003, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylansdad
How do you go about checking/adjusting the back brakes? How will you know if they need adjusting???
Rear Disc Brakes are truly self adjusting(just like the front discs). Rear DRUM Brakes are advertised as Self Adjusting but I've never owned a car where the Rear Self Adjusters ever worked right. They are supposed to work when you are going in reverse and stopping the car. The easiest way to see if your Rear Drums need adjusting is to jack up one of the rear wheels and with the emergency brake OFF, see if you can spin the tire. If the tire spins Without any drag, then that brake needs an adjustment. It'* sometimes possible to turn the star wheel from the outside of the backing plate with a Brake Adjusting Tool(sort of looks like a wide bent screwdriver). I personally take the rear tires and drums off the car and inspect the linings and the wheel cylinders and spray brake cleaner on all the parts to get rid of all the brake dust. I turn the star wheel a few clicks(I forget which way, up or down) and then put the drum back on the hub and spin it. If there'* no drag than I repeat the procedure until I get a lite drag on the drums and then button everything up. Also, I'm not sure if you have grease fittings on the rear like my '91 Olds does, but it'* real easy to grease those fittings with the tires off. And THAT is my two pennies.
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