Is there a normal transmission temperature that I should be looking for on my car?

Mine runs about 190 when driving on the highway and quite a bit more when climbing long hills, yet I've seen mentioned on this forum where trans temps are in the 145 - 150 range. Is the only difference an external cooler or is mine running hot?

Is there a possiblilty that the temp sensor on the trans faulty, giving the computor wrong info?

There is a tech article about installing a trans temp guage, but I can't find the hole indicated on my trans for the sensor to mount.

Can anyone recomend what trans temp guage to get if I got one?

So many questions, so little time.


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Keep in mind some temps you see listed are:

1. Lower mileage than yours.
2. Different trans than yours.
3. External coolers.
4. Temp senders in different places/external gauges.

Alot of variables. Knowing what I know about your area, you're a prime candidate in my book for an external cooler. Please bypass the core in the radiator when you do this. It get'* clogged over time, especially after a trans failure (very small passages in there).

A viscosity-controlled cooler is best. It won't flow out of bypass until the fluid warms up to a pre-determined temperature/viscosity.


You'll find the plug for the sender very near your shift linkage on the top of the trans case (just inboard of the end cover) under your TB. Keep in mind some heatshielding will be needed to keep that from picking up ambient heat from the crossover. I still get false-high readings on mine, but I'm used to it, and know what 'normal' is. You're looking for a small hex plug, not the free-spinning pressure vent.



Top of the trans case, cruise servo actuator in the right background, looking front to rear on the car. White wire is the sensor.

another view from farther out showing the old sensor I ran for awhile:


Keep in mind the factory sensor is inside the valvebody and will read a slightly different temperature than this location. Imagine the crossover pipe being installed in these pics just to the left of the sensor location.

Thanks Bill.

Time to go looking for a cooler and temp guage. Anything to make the trans last a few miles longer.

I've found that if I put the trans into 3rd when climbing hills the temp stays cooler and the computor don't lock me out of overdrive because of an indicated over heat situation.

Go electrical, not mechanical on the gauge. I prefer Cyberdyne in keeping with the stock look of the dash light colors.

B&M is the best cooler:

http://www.autoanything.com/coolers/65A3049A0A0.aspx

http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...bcat=28&pid=73

http://www.jegs.com/p/B&M/758370/10002/-1

I run a 28000 GVWR cooler. Anything in the 20k range will do fine for you. You don't beat on yours like I do.

First time I've seen that recommendation. :?

I have my cooler in series with my rad core cooler. That'* why the trani temp stabilizes at engine temp of 160 F
On a hot summer day (in Oregon) on the highway, I have seen 200 F trani temps but around here it rarely gets above 160 F

John, are you running a cooler than 195 stock engine stat :?:

It'* important to note that the optimum temp for your trani is 130 F.....no lower for spirited driving or you risk overpressuring seals.

Perfect!

I'll see what'* available locally but I have a suspicion that I'll be placing an order with someone who'* heading south in the near future.

Times like this I wish I'd kept my postal box in Blaine.

Not yet.

I have a 180 but haven't installed it yet, waiting for dryer weather.



How'* the weather over your way?


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Paul, when the Zilla'* trans went, my builder showed me a cutaway of the core in the radiator. It'* basically a tube within a tube with a very small gap between. The fluid flows between them. The cutaway he showed me was clogged with trans debris and friction material (some of this is normal in high-mileage transmissions).

Restricting flow in this manner is bad for the trans in the long-run and will create higher than normal temps and fluid starvation over time. He'* seen total transmission failures due to this, and premature failures on older transmissions that would have lasted longer had they not been starved.

His advice was to bypass completely. The B&M coolers run in bypass until the fluid reaches a predetermined temperature.

If I had a spare radiator here, I'd cut that core out of there and show you.

Mine was so bad he had to ditch my external OEM cooler. It was clogged as well. I still have that here.

A wonderfully sunny clear 45F Easter morning.

You should be able to run the 180 year round no problems.

I don't have to worry about sludge from the Bullets trani but the Grizz could be a different matter. We drop the pan today to check out the condition.

Found it. Looks like a 1/4 inch pipe plug or is it metric?