Want the gear heads' input on this problem...WIll, The Doc,
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Want the gear heads' input on this problem...WIll, The Doc,
Now I know I'm gonna hear it anyways but I'll say it right up front...I'm running the 2.4" pulley. Also running a CAI, TR-55'* gapped to .050, 180º drilled T-stat. Now we're @ 112k miles. Here comes the problem....
Car runs superb when in open loop, meaning no bouncy idle, AT ALL, throttle body and MAF have just recently been cleaned last week. Under WOT she PULLS HARD and strong all the way up to the speed limiter, Boost pegged at 11 psi or more. Now once in closed loop, WOT runs are limited for me. She won't let me do it. IT almost feels like the fuel pump is backing off or the car'* starving for fuel. But upon initial pedal mashing (doen't matter what speed I'm going) she'll release some spark knock, and then loose all kinds of power (the kind you feel when a cylinder is not firing). But everything is fine until boost gets up over 7-8 psi (which is now no longer WOT).
Where do I start? Plugs and wires are new about 10-15k ago. Fuel pump? Maybe. Any chance the O2 sensor is not able to keep up with the extra boost? I was leaning more towards this becasue my problem is only there in closed loop (Warmed up). Actually let me take that back. Doesn't the PCM go back to open loop during WOT? But I was thinking fuel pump too as it might be loosing efficiency when IT warms up too, dunno. I don't have 24hr access to the Tech II so I can't get her on there to check for any Lean or Rich codes. I do have my MIL on but it'* because I have the EGR unplugged (runs better without it - see this post http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...883&highlight= for htat reason. I know this EGR problem isn't the cause of my WOT problems either. And if it matters, I was getting this spark knock on a WOT attempt even when the car was stock with stock wires plugs, etc.
Someone...please...HELP! I need WOT power after my car is warmed up.
Car runs superb when in open loop, meaning no bouncy idle, AT ALL, throttle body and MAF have just recently been cleaned last week. Under WOT she PULLS HARD and strong all the way up to the speed limiter, Boost pegged at 11 psi or more. Now once in closed loop, WOT runs are limited for me. She won't let me do it. IT almost feels like the fuel pump is backing off or the car'* starving for fuel. But upon initial pedal mashing (doen't matter what speed I'm going) she'll release some spark knock, and then loose all kinds of power (the kind you feel when a cylinder is not firing). But everything is fine until boost gets up over 7-8 psi (which is now no longer WOT).
Where do I start? Plugs and wires are new about 10-15k ago. Fuel pump? Maybe. Any chance the O2 sensor is not able to keep up with the extra boost? I was leaning more towards this becasue my problem is only there in closed loop (Warmed up). Actually let me take that back. Doesn't the PCM go back to open loop during WOT? But I was thinking fuel pump too as it might be loosing efficiency when IT warms up too, dunno. I don't have 24hr access to the Tech II so I can't get her on there to check for any Lean or Rich codes. I do have my MIL on but it'* because I have the EGR unplugged (runs better without it - see this post http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...883&highlight= for htat reason. I know this EGR problem isn't the cause of my WOT problems either. And if it matters, I was getting this spark knock on a WOT attempt even when the car was stock with stock wires plugs, etc.
Someone...please...HELP! I need WOT power after my car is warmed up.
#2
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Sounds similar to what happened to me. It kept getting worse and worse until I couldn't hold 70 mph on the highway after an hour of driving. I tried filter, pressure regulator, then finally settled on pump. A new pump fixed my problem.
#3
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You have the classic symptoms of KR. And your TR55'* are gapped too close. Run TR55'* at .055" or TR6'* at .050". Neither is going to solve the KR though. This will get worse in the summer.
Your car probably isn't starving for fuel. Things are fine in open loop. That means you have proper fuel flow in a slightly richer condition than closed loop. You're pulling timing, bud.
Get a scantool on the car.
Your car probably isn't starving for fuel. Things are fine in open loop. That means you have proper fuel flow in a slightly richer condition than closed loop. You're pulling timing, bud.
Get a scantool on the car.
#4
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timing
Yes sounds like timing to me also.
Check your TPS voltage at wide open throttle (engine off).
could need an adjustment.
When I advanced mine it made a world of difference in pickup.
Check your TPS voltage at wide open throttle (engine off).
could need an adjustment.
When I advanced mine it made a world of difference in pickup.
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Originally Posted by BillBost37
Call the new guy to the club stupid..
CAI? Cowl Air Induction? Custom Air Induction? Or am I totally off base?
CAI? Cowl Air Induction? Custom Air Induction? Or am I totally off base?
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I forgot to mention, I think this problem goes right along with my other problem stated in this other thread http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...520&highlight=
The loss of power feels similar to the low fuel problem I have.
Any more thoughts?
The loss of power feels similar to the low fuel problem I have.
Any more thoughts?
#8
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Re: Want the gear heads' input on this problem...WIll, The D
Originally Posted by DJ SHO
Car runs superb when in open loop, meaning no bouncy idle, AT ALL, throttle body and MAF have just recently been cleaned last week. Under WOT she PULLS HARD and strong all the way up to the speed limiter, Boost pegged at 11 psi or more. Now once in closed loop, WOT runs are limited for me.
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Re: Want the gear heads' input on this problem...WIll, The D
Originally Posted by willwren
I'd say if you have good fuel flow in open loop, you don't have a fuel problem.
#10
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Simply put, and stated above, you have KR. Your pulley is too small. Have you done the boost bypass trick or the BCS mod? If so, I'd undo both and see if that helps any.
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