I am giving you some valuable information that was passed on to me. I had a code "41" (cam position sensor) Car ran like total excrement. Changed the sensor and it wasn't the whole problem, though it was damaged in the "magnet disintegration process".
I jacked the car up, properly supported it, removed the passenger side front wheel and the black plastic inspection cover. It is in the inner fender, to the right of the front axle, and is about a foot long and held in by three plastic rivets. Carefully grasp the small rivet head and pull out - it should pop out, and then you can remove the rivets.
Behind the cover is the harmonic (Crank) pully. If you grab a flashlight, and go up to 10'o clock on the pully, behind it there is a sensor with a harness covered in corregated wire loom. It is held in by a 3/8" bolt. Unplug the sensor, move the wire away and remove the sensor. Follow the procedure outlined at the above site very carefully, and you will save about $300 or more in labor and be back on the road in no time!
Two cautions: a) make DARN SURE your timing components are okay, especially in a higher-mileage bonnie. If they are not, spend the big bucks and get it all done at a shop. and b) I am a fairly small guy (5'6") and can fit into the wheel-well area (note the term above "properly supported" -- if the car goes somewhere, there is nowhere to run to - use jackstands, heck use TWO jackstands!). A bigger fellow may have trouble in tight quarters such as these!
My hope is that this procedure will benefit you like it did me. Be sure to use JB Weld -- it'* stronger than the factory plastic tabs, in my opinion!