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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-14-2009, 11:46 PM   #1
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Default Cam sensor and EGR issues

Our 1994 SSEi has been running very rough for about the last two years, and I finally got around to seriously trying to figure out all the issues with it. It all began with some major stumbling/sputtering problems at anything other than an idle. I began replacing all the usual suspect parts including air filter, spark plugs and wires (at 150,000 miles, it needed it). Needless to say, it still had the problems. About a year ago, the car would randomly stall, but would start right back up, so it didn't bother me too much, hehe...after all, the wife drives it

Anyway, last month the car stalled and would not start again...well, time to do something I guess! After doing some research, I realized that the '94 and '95 has that weird ECM (OBD1.5 if you will), so there is no clear-cut "cheap" way of getting codes scanned. Long story short(er), I bought an Actron 9110 Scantool with the CP9111 module and soldered my own cable together so it would work with this car. Pulled codes and found it to be the cam sensor. Replaced the cam sensor, and it started right up (luckily the magnet on the cam seems to be okay).

I let her drive the vehicle to work today, and the car stalled AGAIN three blocks from home (according to her it was a mile away of course hehe). When we finally went to get her car, I checked the cam sensor connector and noticed that all three wires were missing the insulation for about 4" from the plug and were shorting to each other. I separated the wires, and it fired right back up and we got it home. Looks as though maybe the insulation has been rubbed off by a belt or pulley or any rate, I separated and taped up the wires til we can get a replacement pigtail for it. At this point the car is still running crappy though, but at least it starts!

Now for the crappy running part: the scanner was telling me EGR problems. I thought I'd try something so I unplugged the EGR valve at the top of the valve and drove it. The car is finally running right after two years of struggling (procrastinating) with these issues!

Morals of the story: get a can get something that works pretty well for $100 (or less), and if you need help with the special cable, let me know. ...and if the scantool mentions something about the EGR circuit, go ahead and unplug the valve...the car seems to run perfect without it (I DO plan to replace the $130 EGR valve at some point so the SES light goes away, but not a huge priority to me at this point).

Sorry for the long post, but I hope this may help people who are pulling their hair out over driveability issues
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