I have a 1996 Bonneville SSEI that I recently just put a rebuilt supercharger on. During this process. I had a fire on top of my manifold and it melted my fuel lines and some vacuum lines. I replaced the fuel lines and replaced all of the vacuum lines and replaced all of the plugs and plug wires as well as all of the fuel injector bushings when I had them out. I got it all put back together and it run like a champ! I took it out for about a 20 minute test ride and everything was fine. When I got home, I noticed it sort of had a rough idle / Missing a bit. I shut the car off and went in and ate dinner. I come back out a couple hours later to start it up and tinker with it,and it would not stay running. It will start and idle for about 5-6 seconds and then die.It will do this EVERY time.If you try to give it gas, it will die immediately. When you turn the key, you can hear the fuel pump sending the initial fuel to the rail. I have checked to make sure there are no kinks in the fuel line because I feel it has to do with something that was just tinkered with.It could be the fuel pump, but that would be really coincidental. Is there any way to check the pump through the relief valve on the fuel rail? To me it just feels fuel related.Does anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks!!

Could be IAC, TPS and or MAF as well.

Is there a quick way to test any of those with a hand held computer?

I just got a chance to check the codes, and the first code that come up was about the MAF I also had 2 codes about the Number 6 cylinder misfiring, and the last code was something about a maufacturer air to fuel ratio or something to that effect. The car has all new plugs and wires, so I am assuming that the misfires were caused maybe by the MAF? Would the Maf cause the car to only run for 1-3 seconds and then stall out? Is there any way to test the MAF? They are about $150.00 to buy a new one! Thanks for the help

Maf is easy to test. Unplug it, this defaults the pcm to the backup tables. At first it'll probably run a bit rough, give it a little time and it'll learn and smooth out. If all seems well with the maf unhooked, then typically your problem is the maf sensor.

Maf can definately cause the car to run for seconds and stall.

In agreement with Bill here. Sounds like a MAF problem. Could also be a MAP, TPS, or IAT

OK, It Worked! I unplugged it and the car actually runs now!!! I guess now my next course of action will be to remove the Maf and try to clean it. If that doesnt work, I will have to get a new one. Is there a special way to clean the MAF?

https://www.gmforum.com/t278926/

Check the wire. I'm suspect it'* broken. Thsi sounds like a bad MAF, not a dirty one.

there are 2 wires in there,one on each side, with a diode in the middle of each. Both are in tact. just carboned up looking

OK, Here is the latest. I bought a can of MAF sensor cleaner and took the MAF out and srayed it really weell. I let it sit overnight to dry. I put it back in and plugged it in and the car dies out immediately and when I unplug it, the car runs rough for a few seconds and then smooths right out. So I am assuming the MAF is Bad. Before I spend $150.00 is there ANYTHING else that anyone knows of that could cause the MAF to malfunction? What I am saying is, Is it possible for the MAF to still be good, but something else is making it malfunction? I know with Electrical parts, they usually have a no return policy. Thank!!!!