BRAKES for my '92 SSE...?
03-30-2006, 11:22 PM
#11
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When it'* time, I'll get a lesson on pad replacement.
Something tells me I was wise to listen to willwren...
I kept hearing this little voice inside my head --- "Powerslots and QS"
As for the painted calipers ( and drums ), I hear ya.
My buddy, 'what'* his name' ( he can't remember his SCREEN NAME, and neither can I !!!
) was the one to help me paint my stuff with GM ENGINE BLUE. 
This was a nice contrast to the green paint, and it wasn't RICER RED. :P
Behind the new wheels, it doesn't look too bad, but it'* gonna need a touch-up.
Something tells me I was wise to listen to willwren...
I kept hearing this little voice inside my head --- "Powerslots and QS"
As for the painted calipers ( and drums ), I hear ya.
My buddy, 'what'* his name' ( he can't remember his SCREEN NAME, and neither can I !!!
) was the one to help me paint my stuff with GM ENGINE BLUE. This was a nice contrast to the green paint, and it wasn't RICER RED. :P
Behind the new wheels, it doesn't look too bad, but it'* gonna need a touch-up.
03-31-2006, 07:34 AM
#12
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Keep in mind that the right driving style can destroy the best brakes. 
I don't think there'* a bulletproof combination out there, but you've probably just come as close as you can possibly get with that setup.
You'll love how clean your wheels stay, and the fact that they bite harder when hot, rather than fade.
Clean your studs and lugs once a year, as well as the outer mating surface of your rotors and the inner surface of the wheels. Put a smal dot of oil on the stud threads, and torque ANALLY. I torque all to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern, then to 100ft/lbs. Little details like this can make those rotors go longer without warping.
I don't think there'* a bulletproof combination out there, but you've probably just come as close as you can possibly get with that setup.You'll love how clean your wheels stay, and the fact that they bite harder when hot, rather than fade.
Clean your studs and lugs once a year, as well as the outer mating surface of your rotors and the inner surface of the wheels. Put a smal dot of oil on the stud threads, and torque ANALLY. I torque all to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern, then to 100ft/lbs. Little details like this can make those rotors go longer without warping.
03-31-2006, 10:33 PM
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I sure appreciate the comments and advice.
The peace of mind that goes with this project is well worth the little bit of extra money spent.
This vehicle really IS my work car, so it doesn't get 'raced'. But I do like the thought of having that extra margin of safety available.
I take her in at 0800 tomorrow ( SATURDAY ).
I'll post about it later that day.
Thanks.
The peace of mind that goes with this project is well worth the little bit of extra money spent.
This vehicle really IS my work car, so it doesn't get 'raced'. But I do like the thought of having that extra margin of safety available.
I take her in at 0800 tomorrow ( SATURDAY ).
I'll post about it later that day.
Thanks.
04-01-2006, 11:23 AM
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So, I load the bicycle in the trunk and get ready to ride home in the rain from Les Schwab.
I arrive at the appointment early.
The mechanic tells me he called 3 days ago and spoke with my Wife about having to special order the Powerslot rotors.
They would have been here by now.
My Wife forgot to tell me he called...
I rescheduled the appointment for next Saturday, and it will cost an additional $30.00 to have the parts shipped UPS Ground. :o
Needless to say, I'm not a happy camper this morning.
I'll post again when the job is done.
I arrive at the appointment early.
The mechanic tells me he called 3 days ago and spoke with my Wife about having to special order the Powerslot rotors.
They would have been here by now.
My Wife forgot to tell me he called...
I rescheduled the appointment for next Saturday, and it will cost an additional $30.00 to have the parts shipped UPS Ground. :o
Needless to say, I'm not a happy camper this morning.
I'll post again when the job is done.
04-01-2006, 11:25 AM
#16
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Make sure you talk to them about bedding the pads and breaking in the rotors properly, or check Powerslot'* website for the procedure. I'd do the preliminary work (cleaning the back side of the wheels and threads of the lugs/studs) ahead of time.
04-01-2006, 12:09 PM
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I just had those new wheels installed, so they're still clean.
I'll ask the guy at Schwab to clean up the lug and bore area for me when they've got the wheels off.
I couldn't find a break-in procedure on the Powerslot website, but they had some good technical info and excellent photos.
On the Raybestos website, I found this on the QS pads:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
http://www.powerslot.com/pages/power_slot.html
I'm confident these components are a wise choice for my SSE.
I'll ask the guy at Schwab to clean up the lug and bore area for me when they've got the wheels off.
I couldn't find a break-in procedure on the Powerslot website, but they had some good technical info and excellent photos.
On the Raybestos website, I found this on the QS pads:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
Quiet Stop™ Brake Pads Features and Benefits:
Feature: A revolutionary ceramic friction formulation
Benefit: Ultra-quiet braking performance with ultra-low dusting
Feature: 100% shimmed, slotted and chamfered
Benefit: Exceptional durability, resistance to fade and rapid recovery
Feature: Integrally molded
Benefit: Superior strength
Feature: Coverage for late model domestic and import passenger cars and sport utility vehicles
Benefit: First to Market with O.E. specified ceramic applications and popular upgrades
Feature: Post-cured
Benefit: Requires no break-in period, for safe and consistent performance
Feature: A revolutionary ceramic friction formulation
Benefit: Ultra-quiet braking performance with ultra-low dusting
Feature: 100% shimmed, slotted and chamfered
Benefit: Exceptional durability, resistance to fade and rapid recovery
Feature: Integrally molded
Benefit: Superior strength
Feature: Coverage for late model domestic and import passenger cars and sport utility vehicles
Benefit: First to Market with O.E. specified ceramic applications and popular upgrades
Feature: Post-cured
Benefit: Requires no break-in period, for safe and consistent performance
Power Slot never drills an OE sized rotor. When you drill an OE sized rotor, you weaken it and cause stress points that can lead to cracking and ultimately failure. Drilled rotors lose considerable surface area and mass compared to slotted rotors. That means less active braking area for the pad to make contact on the rotor. Our slot pattern, unlike drilling, doesn’t compromise the structural integrity of the rotor.
Power Slot applies a proprietary military-spec Cadmium plating on every single rotor we sell. This protects the rotor from harmful corrosion throughout its life. Other competitors use inferior Zinc plating on their rotors, or no plating at all! In salt spray testing, our Cadmium plating last up to 60% longer than Zinc.
04-08-2006, 12:26 PM
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[b]Additional costs:[/b]
Dropped off the car this AM and got a call within the hour for authorization to replace the out-of-spec and cracked rear drums...
Add $140.00...
This'll bring the total to over $800.00, but I'll have a helluva good brake system!
I'll check back after I get the car and test drive it.
Add $140.00...
This'll bring the total to over $800.00, but I'll have a helluva good brake system!
I'll check back after I get the car and test drive it.