It just doesn't seem likely that most mechanical problems that would prevent a caliper from releasing would occur on both sides simultaneously. Not impossible, but not likely. This would include stuff like a bad hose, sticking piston, even bad fluid. So I'm thinking it points to something upstream like the master cylinder or the brake booster.
My factory service manual is for 1992, so I am not sure how relevent these items are to your '96; but here is what it lists as the most likely causes under: Brakes drag -
Brake pedal linkage interference or binding
(Is something preventing the pedal from returning all the way up?)
Improperly adjusted master cylinder push rod
(not likely in your case)
Weak or incorrect brake shoe retention springs
(rear brake reference)
Improperly adjusted stop lamp switches
(these might be preventing the pedal from returning all the way up)
Other less likely causes:
Contaminated or improper brake fluid
Power booster damaged
Missing or loose brake assembly attachments
Incorrect rear brake adjustment
Restricted brake fluid passage
Improperly adjusted parking brake
Sticking wheel cylinder or caliper piston
Faulty proportioner valve
(I am not positive, but I don't think this would cause both fronts to stick, as there is one valve between each caliper and opposite rear wheel)
So, It is possible that bleeding the brakes might help by flushing out any contaminated fluid that might have been stirred up when your struts were done. It will also remove air from the system. Air in the lines should result in a spongy pedal. For a description of how to bleed your brakes, go here: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...009&highlight=
You will want to read the entire thread.
 Fuddyduddy made an excellent suggestion for bleeding brakes easily and effectively by yourself - install a set of speed-bleeders. Ask at your auto parts store - I think a set of four is about $10-12.
Now, if an ABS fault is causing your problem, you will need to find more knowledgable help - and probably someone with a '96 FSM too.