Hope the weather does not get too bad for you, it is snowing here, so I know I won't be working on any projects.
Keep us posted on how it goes when you can get back to it.

Sorry for taking so long, been tied up with studies, weather, bad back pain and every other excuse you can think of.

The engine was cold at the time and I had it hooked up to a jump starter.

Cyl 1 155 Cyl 2 130
Cyl 3 135 Cyl 4 135
Cyl 5 140 Cyl 6 155


Thanks again to everyone for their help

I'm guessing I only need a umg and lmg kit?

Anything else I should consider buying?

THanks again.

G

All you should need it the UIM if you want to replace it with a new one, if it is still good you can get the UIM Gasket kit by Dorman, and the Fel-PRO LIM gasket kit, along with the aluminum Dorman coolant elbows.
Well, also oil and coolant.
Will post part numbers when I wake up if you need them, I have been awake 24 hours and need to catch some z'*.

I'll say, he doesn't need an uim, or elbows. Make sure you get a new o- ring for the heater pipe off the lim, and coolant bypass fitting in metal, instead of plastic. It would be a good time for valve cover gaskets too if they had never been done.

Did you ever actually identify the source of the leak? Have you tried filling it back up with coolant to see what happens? While i am all for a good lim job, i wonder if its necessary?

Haha, just read the thread over again. Please proceed.

Thanks Guys,

Randal, I have coolant and leak stop all (I hate this stuff, why do people use it?) over the UIM. Yes I'll need valve cover gaskets as well.

William, I would really appreciate part numbers.

What about 0-rings for the injectors, would that be advisable to replace as well?

I am not really familiar with the Series I, but I don't think he should need a new UIM, but if he removes his throttle body to clean it, and the butterfly valve, then there is a chance that when he removes the throttle body gasket to replace it, the plastic lip holding the gasket in place can break apart, on my series 2 it was so softened the plastic fell apart as I removed the TB gasket.
Most likely he can reuse the UIM though, I'd not try to remove the throttle body if he does not want to take a chance on having to replace it.
I have not heard of that coolant elbow referred to as a coolant bypass pipe before, but we were talking about the same thing.


You mention coolant and leak stop, if you used that leak stop crap in the system, I'd be sure to flush it out well when you go to replace the coolant, I'd never recommend using that stuff to anybody.

I cannot find any aluminum framed gaskets for the Series 1, anybody know if they ever made them with aluminum frames like they did for the series II?
All I can find is FEL-PRO Part # MS94918 for the LIM gasket, it says SE Model.

For the UIM Gasket , I cannot find a part number for the gasket, other than VICTOR REINZ Part # MS14638, which I am not positive is the right gasket, it looks like it, but somebody else will have to verify.

Going to need some help fining the coolant elbow, I thought they made an aluminum one for the Series I, but I cannot find it, looks like I have some homework to do on the Series I, I could not fin any coolant elbows in plastic either.

For the fuel o-rings, those are cheap so I'd replace them.
Sorry I was not able to be of more help.

Series 1 has a different setup than series 2. The parts you refer to only exist on series 2.

1. He has an aluminum UIM, unique to the 1992 model year. You bring up a valid point, make sure there is a throttle body gasket is on hand.
2. Bypass fitting: Dorman/Heater Hose Fitting (56359) | 1992 Pontiac Bonneville 6 Cylinders L 3.8L SFI OHV | AutoZone.com
3. The series 1 also has one of the heater hose pipes that goes right in to the LIM, held in with one bolt, sealed with an o-ring. Mine was shot when we pulled it out.
4. There are no coolant elbows on series 1 like series 2
5. Injector O-rings can probably stand to be replaced, but likely will cause a vacuum leak if they are upset in this repair. I would hold off on replacing them until you replace the injectors as you plan.

The motor should run perfectly fine, aside from the coolant leak. There is a chance that this could be causing a vacuum leak as well, in which case it will run crappy. If you refill with coolant/water, and run the car, how does it run? Have you checked the oil to make sure that no coolant/water has entered the oil? If it runs perfectly fine, just dumps coolant, I would just replace the injectors when doing the job. No point in doing work twice as the fuel rail must come off on teardown anyway.

Thanks Randall.

Couple of quick questions. For the UIM, is there a gasket I need? or is that the MS94918 William mentioned?

Also where is the bypass fitting used?

Why would I need to change the injectors? can I test them or clean them?

Anything else I should order?

Thanks again.

Also, there is no collant/water in the oil.

G