The Ultimate Cooldown...
#1
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The Ultimate Cooldown...
Recently I've been thinking of a way to get my operating temps to stay as close as possible to 200*. Lately, I've been hitting temps [going by the stock gauge] that are between the line after the 200* mark the the line b4 the red area. True, the gauge may be off a little, but this is still hot, IMO.
Mind you - these temps were reached without a tstat even being in the car [which is how i've been running it for about a week].
I took a look at the coolant reservoir today and the coolant is dirty...has stuff in it...not exactly sure what it is. I'm hoping its not oil since the coolant in the raditor still looks pretty clean and green.
So i'm definately looking to get the whole system professionally flushed. I'm also looking for a place that will also put some type of chemical in to help clean things when the flush is being done.
In addition, I'm thinking about cleaning/lubing my EGR Valve, as I've read on here that it can contribute to some heat issues. I don't have an SES light on for it - so should I just leave it alone?
I'm also open to any other suggestions in ways I can keep my temps cooler [especially at idle when it really seems to jump up]. I feel heat was a reason for killing my crank sensor, and I don't want other components to start dying off as a result either.
Thanks!
Mind you - these temps were reached without a tstat even being in the car [which is how i've been running it for about a week].
I took a look at the coolant reservoir today and the coolant is dirty...has stuff in it...not exactly sure what it is. I'm hoping its not oil since the coolant in the raditor still looks pretty clean and green.
So i'm definately looking to get the whole system professionally flushed. I'm also looking for a place that will also put some type of chemical in to help clean things when the flush is being done.
In addition, I'm thinking about cleaning/lubing my EGR Valve, as I've read on here that it can contribute to some heat issues. I don't have an SES light on for it - so should I just leave it alone?
I'm also open to any other suggestions in ways I can keep my temps cooler [especially at idle when it really seems to jump up]. I feel heat was a reason for killing my crank sensor, and I don't want other components to start dying off as a result either.
Thanks!
#2
Retired
Trans cooler. You could bypass the fans, install your own switches and control the fans to come on early, or all the time.
Wait, you say your stat is already out and you are seeing temps of 200+? Weird. I have the 185 stat and when sitting it might get up to 200, but not over.
Wait, you say your stat is already out and you are seeing temps of 200+? Weird. I have the 185 stat and when sitting it might get up to 200, but not over.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
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#3
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I've kinda got the same thing going on except my temp goes just past the 200 mark. I've done a complete cooling system flush. I'm running a 195 stat and never really noticed the temps go above 200 before. Maybe I never really noticed it before. It'* kinda like thinking back in your memory and saying "did that do that before or not". I installed a bypass switch so now I can control the fans when I want.
#5
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i haven't heard of this here yet but i know they do it on other vehicles... if they make an aluminium rad for the bonnie they will dispers heat more efficently (or so the manufactures claim, and i bealive). you may also want to look at some of the mods willwren has done to greenzilla. i bealive they really cooled off the engine as well.
#6
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True Car Nut
Without a thermostat, if you are seeing 200*+, you need to check out the cooling system. If you are losing coolant, do a pressure test. Otherwise, a flush might help, but if the radiator is original, most likely it needs to be replaced. They don't last forever. I have found radiators for about $100 on line, and have been happy with the quality.
The coolant bottle doesn't bubble when it passes 200, I hope. That would indicate a blown head gasket, cracked block, or head. Not likely, but possible.
Sometimes a weak water pump will cause a problem. Not common though.
The coolant bottle doesn't bubble when it passes 200, I hope. That would indicate a blown head gasket, cracked block, or head. Not likely, but possible.
Sometimes a weak water pump will cause a problem. Not common though.
#7
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True Car Nut
Originally Posted by bsan63
I've kinda got the same thing going on except my temp goes just past the 200 mark. I've done a complete cooling system flush. I'm running a 195 stat and never really noticed the temps go above 200 before. Maybe I never really noticed it before. It'* kinda like thinking back in your memory and saying "did that do that before or not". I installed a bypass switch so now I can control the fans when I want.
#8
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Here'* my $0.02:
Both of my supercharged bonnies ('92, '93) run hot, and I doubt that anything is wrong with them. From the several previous threads I've read about engine temps, the supercharged engines run hotter than the normally aspirated counterparts, and that'* considered to be 'as designed', so it seems illogical to me that owners try to compare the supercharged and non-supercharged engines and and assume that they both operate at the same temps.
I can't comment on the radiators in the normally aspirated versions, but both of my supercharged bonnies have aluminum radiators (and trans coolers), and even with a brand new radiator, water pump, thermostat (changed to 185 degree version), and coolant, the temps have remained unchanged. I can't comment on the normally aspirated engines, but in my opinion, the supercharged engines were designed with insufficient cooling capacity.
Both of my supercharged bonnies ('92, '93) run hot, and I doubt that anything is wrong with them. From the several previous threads I've read about engine temps, the supercharged engines run hotter than the normally aspirated counterparts, and that'* considered to be 'as designed', so it seems illogical to me that owners try to compare the supercharged and non-supercharged engines and and assume that they both operate at the same temps.
I can't comment on the radiators in the normally aspirated versions, but both of my supercharged bonnies have aluminum radiators (and trans coolers), and even with a brand new radiator, water pump, thermostat (changed to 185 degree version), and coolant, the temps have remained unchanged. I can't comment on the normally aspirated engines, but in my opinion, the supercharged engines were designed with insufficient cooling capacity.
#9
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The temperature gauges are not known for great accuracy, but if you are concerned about the temps of your engine (and I would be if it were mine) I'd suggest you get your system tested as Bill suggested.
A "redneck" way I've used to some success to check coolant temperature is to take a digital meat thermometer and place it on the thermostat housing and read the temperature there. That will give you at least an idea of your coolant temps.
A system flush certainly isn't going to hurt anything, and may do you a lot of good.
A "redneck" way I've used to some success to check coolant temperature is to take a digital meat thermometer and place it on the thermostat housing and read the temperature there. That will give you at least an idea of your coolant temps.
A system flush certainly isn't going to hurt anything, and may do you a lot of good.
#10
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I may be wrong so don't quote me on this. I thought when you took the t-stat out completley it makes a vehicle run hotter due to the fact that the coolant isn't able to sit in the radiator long enough to cool? If this is the case I could see why your temps are hot. Now on the other hand I had the same problem and I put the 180 stat in and it did nothing to help the temps. Then I read the post on here about the fan override. I hooked my fans up so that they run as soon as you turn the ignition on, and presto!! It runs just under 200 all the time now! I love it. I am gonna run a switch when I run my power wire to my amps. You might want to try the fan override and put a 180 stat in.