Bleeding Brakes
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Page 5-14, Manual Bleeding, Step 4:
If you must bleed all the wheel cicuits, use the following sequence: Right rear, left rear, right front, and then left front.
Page 5-15, Pressure Bleeding, Step 6:
If you must bleed all the wheel cicuits, use the following sequence: Right rear, left rear, right front, and then left front.
If you must bleed all the wheel cicuits, use the following sequence: Right rear, left rear, right front, and then left front.
Page 5-15, Pressure Bleeding, Step 6:
If you must bleed all the wheel cicuits, use the following sequence: Right rear, left rear, right front, and then left front.
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Originally Posted by karfreek
To get a firm pedal you have to adjust the rear brakes too, they are what give you pedal 'feel'. Take off the drums and adjust them out until you have to use a rubber mallot to get the drums back on. Then spin the hub, you should be able to turn it but have to put some oomph behind it. Then repeat the other side. I have to do this about every 3 months or so, even tho I rebuilt them last year. I require that 'put your head thru the window' feeling at all times.
Jay
Jay
The rear brakes only account for about 20% of the braking and thus should last a long time. My wifes '96 Bonneville has 110K on it and still has the original rear shoes. They won't last very long using this adjusting method.
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It'* been a while since I did drum brakes, but to adjust them, you get them close, then back up and stop a few times. They are made to adjust themselves whenever you stop in reverse.
If you need a mallet to get the drums on, they are set way too wide!
If you need a mallet to get the drums on, they are set way too wide!
#14
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some info on traditional bleeding method here:
http://bonnevilleclub.com/forum/view...009&highlight=
Also, consider getting a set of self-bleeders like Fuddyduddy that work as check valves and let you bleed your brakes without a helper.
http://bonnevilleclub.com/forum/view...009&highlight=
Also, consider getting a set of self-bleeders like Fuddyduddy that work as check valves and let you bleed your brakes without a helper.
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Originally Posted by karfreek
To get a firm pedal you have to adjust the rear brakes too, they are what give you pedal 'feel'. Take off the drums and adjust them out until you have to use a rubber mallot to get the drums back on. Then spin the hub, you should be able to turn it but have to put some oomph behind it. Then repeat the other side. I have to do this about every 3 months or so, even tho I rebuilt them last year. I require that 'put your head thru the window' feeling at all times.
Jay
Jay
The rear brakes only account for about 20% of the braking and thus should last a long time. My wifes '96 Bonneville has 110K on it and still has the original rear shoes. They won't last very long using this adjusting method.
MOS, I have NEVER owned a car where the self adjusters actually worked properly. Short of owning a car with four wheel disc brakes, I will always adjust the rear drums manually.
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Originally Posted by Ol' Timer
Originally Posted by Ranger
Originally Posted by karfreek
To get a firm pedal you have to adjust the rear brakes too, they are what give you pedal 'feel'. Take off the drums and adjust them out until you have to use a rubber mallot to get the drums back on. Then spin the hub, you should be able to turn it but have to put some oomph behind it. Then repeat the other side. I have to do this about every 3 months or so, even tho I rebuilt them last year. I require that 'put your head thru the window' feeling at all times.
Jay
Jay
The rear brakes only account for about 20% of the braking and thus should last a long time. My wifes '96 Bonneville has 110K on it and still has the original rear shoes. They won't last very long using this adjusting method.
MOS, I have NEVER owned a car where the self adjusters actually worked properly. Short of owning a car with four wheel disc brakes, I will always adjust the rear drums manually.
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Oh i bought a nice old Mity Vac and the fronts went nicely already. Anyone in MN who needs to use it for bleeding or vacuum testing is more then welcome.
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Originally Posted by Ol' Timer
Originally Posted by Ranger
Originally Posted by karfreek
To get a firm pedal you have to adjust the rear brakes too, they are what give you pedal 'feel'. Take off the drums and adjust them out until you have to use a rubber mallot to get the drums back on. Then spin the hub, you should be able to turn it but have to put some oomph behind it. Then repeat the other side. I have to do this about every 3 months or so, even tho I rebuilt them last year. I require that 'put your head thru the window' feeling at all times.
Jay
Jay
The rear brakes only account for about 20% of the braking and thus should last a long time. My wifes '96 Bonneville has 110K on it and still has the original rear shoes. They won't last very long using this adjusting method.
MOS, I have NEVER owned a car where the self adjusters actually worked properly. Short of owning a car with four wheel disc brakes, I will always adjust the rear drums manually.
Im not saying you have to put the drum by swinging the mallot like a baseball bat, just a slight tap. I use the mallot so I don't fock my hand. I was shown this method by my brother who was a mechanic before becomming a airline pilot. He still does this methond when he does brake jobs on the side. Ever replace shoes and drums, it is a slip fit that is tight, that is how I I get them to after I adjust them. Also, if you are not changing your drums/pads there are slight hills and valleys that come with wear. You have to get over these to get the drum back on, hence a slight tap with the mallot. The last time I did this was on the lift at my brother inlaws who is a ASE Master Tech with a degree in auto tech and is now an auto tech teacher. I asked him about the amount of 'oomph' that I needed to turn the hub by the stud, he said it was perfect. Put the wheel on and turn it and it basicly feels like there is no drag, this what the car 'feels'.
I dont think my brakes are rubbing because I still get 21 in the city and 28 on the hwy. And, still have the stock shoes with 1/2 the material left. Also, i wouldn't mind a little drag as it feels lime my SSEi would coast for 5 miles from 60mph.
Jay
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Ok, if you have over 100K on the rears then you are obviously not over adjusting or draging brakes. I guess it was just the way I interpreted your first post.
BTW, who does your brother fly for?
BTW, who does your brother fly for?
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Ok, if you have over 100K on the rears then you are obviously not over adjusting or draging brakes. I guess it was just the way I interpreted your first post.
BTW, who does your brother fly for?
BTW, who does your brother fly for?
Jay
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