Posts like a Camaro
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
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Best way to perform home made coolant flush
I was working on fixing a vacuum leak and couldn't help but constantly stare at the coolant reservoir with rusty looking chunks floating around in it. It'* bugging the crap out of me and something needs done. I called a garage in the area all my family takes their vehicles to. As for me, I've never taken my vehicle to the garage in my two and a half year driving career, except for transmission work. I don't believe in it. The garage said it'd probably be around $60-$100 to do with chemical flush and everything, depending on how long it took to get all of the sediment out.
I'd like to give this a shot myself... and here was my idea. Let me know if you think it would work at all.
Drain the crap already in the rad into a bucket, take the reserve and hose off and throw the garden hose in there to get all that crap out. Once the whole system is empty, take out the tstat (replace later with 180), and then I'd basically take off the upper rad hose going into the rad, figure out a way to get it pointing into a bucket so it won't spill all over the ground. With the reserve hooked back up with the cap on, take the rad cap off and shove a hose in there and turn it on. From there, basically I'd wait until the water coming out of the upper rad hose was clear-ish. Once it is, put it back on the rad, fill it up with water, run the car for a few minutes, not long enough to get warmed up but enough to get the stuff moving out (without the thermostat in... safe???). Do the process a few times until everything comes out clear.
Does this sounds stupid, retarded, or do you think it would actually work? I'm well aware that I'll have to keep everything cool since after all I am flushing cool water through the system.
By the way, if that doesn't make any sense, that'* because I was designing the idea as I typed it lol.
EDIT: I've also considered the fact that I should refer to the techinfo article on refilling the L36 as well. I'm not sure, but the tag on the top of the intake manifold is a click with 97 through it, and the arm is pointing to a 3. 03-1997 I'm assuming was the manufacture date. If so, I would imagine any parts that like to fail on that intake are close and don't want to have to deal with it just yet so I'd better just follow procedure on that one lol.
1997 Bonneville SE - H4U, 3.06:1, Tinted Tails, Bridgestone Potenza G009 225/60/16s
Performance: INTENSE PCM, INTENSE 180* T-stat, Gutted air box, K&N air filter, Ported LIM, Borg Warner Wires, NGK TR-55 Plugs, Adjustable Trans Modulator, Flowmaster 80 crossflow muffler w/ quad tips.
Bells and Whistles: 2x Kicker CVR12 Subs in vented box, 1000W RMS 1-ohm American Bass Amp, Pioneer DEH-P6900UB Head Unit, Hardwired Whistler Pro 58 Radar Detector, Hardwired and Customized Mio c310x GPS