i would say that since the key thing didn't help that it'* not the answer. remember, there was a recall on 98'* (i think it was 98'*?) for failed FPR'* that caused the car to backfire and destroy the upper intake manifold. so it'* something to keep in mind.

and the way to check it depends on the tools you have on hand. there'* about 3 or 4 ways, and in terms of the best ways to do it, we have...

1. check it with a pressure gage, report back and see if you're in the proper range.
2. remove the vacuum line from the FPR while it'* running. does any fuel leak out the end?
3. after the car has been sitting a good long while, use a screwdriver and press in the valve on the FPR - does any fuel spit out? (if you do this, be careful - if your FPR is good, you'll be getting a nice little spray of fuel).

but check out those plug wires for a cross fire. while it'* dark outside, take a spray bottle of water, and while the motor is running, spray a mist above the plug wires. if you get a light show, your wires need to be replaced.

but i'm still leaning more towards FPR than that, as it would seem that bad wires would make it bad all of the time, not just when cold or after sitting for a while.

I thought that too, mkaake, but after a little sitting, things settle, get closer, etc.. and with a little driving they move around. My car was fine at idle, but as soon as I revved the engine it popped like hell, the airbox shook, and the car would drop to 600rpm [on the tach], and it would occasionally stall at that point. Or stumble for a minute. Took me a while to figure out the problem, being it as simple as it was.


-justin

and that'* all fine, but he doesn't have a problem starting the car back up when the car is warm - and if it was wires moving around because of the torque involved with starting the motor, it seems like it would happen every time, not just when it'* cold.

my vote is still fpr... but it can't hurt to check the wires...

ill take a look at the wires later today. i have pressed in on that valve on the fuel line, and it has always squirted out a bit of fuel. ill try it tonight after work and see what happens. also this morning on the way to work, it kept dying in the morning commute. id have to constantly be looking at the tach while idling. when it dropped to around 700 or 800 rpm id have to give it a bit of gas or it would just die. it just kept wanting to go down to 500 and quit but i tried to keep the car alive, it died a few times durning the short 5 mile commute but usually i can keep it alive if i watch the tach constantly. and like i said there is no problem running when its above 1000 rpm, the rpms seem a little higher than usual, i noticed that when going 55 the rpms are at about 1750 when they used to be around 1200. and going 65 its a little over 2000. maybe thats just my transmission being old though, i dont know.

try starting it in neutral when you have the chance. see what happens with that.

i tried starting in neutral but that didnt help. also last night when i went out to test the valve on the fuel line i pressed it in but nothing came out. does that mean the fuel pressure regulator is bad?

Yes.


-justin

okay. so where is it, and how do i go about replacing it? thanks

i figured it out... went to pep boys.. the fuel regulator cost $49.95. put it in, took about 5 minutes. i had to take out the fuel pump fuse and turn the engiine over to get rid of pressure in the line. but i got it installed and the car runs like its brand new now. thank you guys so much. turns out the computer and icm were good after all! i cant believe that little part was giving my car so much trouble.

Try a junkyard for your airbox