Changing Coil Packs
#1
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Changing Coil Packs
I need to know if when changing out my coil packs, do I need to disconnect the battery? And also will changing the packs affect the computer in any way (will it have to be reset)? Also is this a hard job to do, or can some one as mechanically dysfunctional as I am can do it?
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Yes...you should always diconnect the neg. battery cable while working on anything electrical...And no...swapping coil packs are not that complicated of a procedure..Although if you are in the dark with such matters...buy a Haynes or Chilton service/repair manual for a step by step guide..it will also aide you in the future...
Question?...what kind of packs are you going to replace with?? stock?? or??
Question?...what kind of packs are you going to replace with?? stock?? or??
#3
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Disconnect the cable like Con10der said, just to be SAFE. 2 screws per coil, mark your wires first. You may want to pre-mark your new coils, too. I don't suppose you have a dozen lasers available like I do, so make some labels or write neatly in permanent ink or pencil. It really helps.
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Finally got around to my first mod. I am upgrading to MSD coils. Ordered them 3 days ago. Hopefully they will come in today. Will let you guys know.
#8
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Well, after almost 2 weeks of waiting I finally received my MSD coils I ordered. I won't bother you guys with the horror story that leads up to me getting these things from MSD, just suffice it to say I hope I don't need anything from them soon. Got them on in about 15 minutes but have not had a chance to really see if I can notice a real difference in performance. Also when I was replaceing the coils I noticed my number 4 wire was coroded on the inside and it looked like water had somehow gotten up in the connector. Can some explain this, or could it have happened when when the mech replaced the wires during my engine reman?
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So Will, is the laser tech stuff you do for HP a little more than just mass storage research, or do you guys like to have a little "fun" when you have spare parts lying around?
Sort of like the liquid nitrogen in our labs...we're technically supposed to only use it to freeze samples or snap freeze plates, but...the stuff is just so damn fun to play with...
laydbaak: it'* actually quite easy for water and other particulates to enter the engine bay. When I yanked the wires on my coils, they had been thoroughly coated with electrically conductive grease. Were yours lubed up when you took them off? In any case, new coils could probably stand to have new wires as well anyway.
Sort of like the liquid nitrogen in our labs...we're technically supposed to only use it to freeze samples or snap freeze plates, but...the stuff is just so damn fun to play with...
laydbaak: it'* actually quite easy for water and other particulates to enter the engine bay. When I yanked the wires on my coils, they had been thoroughly coated with electrically conductive grease. Were yours lubed up when you took them off? In any case, new coils could probably stand to have new wires as well anyway.
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Also when I was replaceing the coils I noticed my number 4 wire was coroded on the inside and it looked like water had somehow gotten up in the connector. Can some explain this, or could it have happened when when the mech replaced the wires during my engine reman?
It is recommended you apply a small bead of dielectric grease inside the boot to protect the connectors from moisture. Some premium wire sets come with dielectric grease already pre-applied to the boots, many do not. Its always handy to have a tube of it around.
And to clarify, dielectric grease is electrically non-conductive.