1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

ALTERNATOR

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Old 04-12-2004, 04:43 AM
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Yea something is overworking it because when i take it on the back of the alternator where the battery connecter goes the plastic piece is always melted.I tryed sperating it with a battery washer on it but it doesnt work.
Old 04-12-2004, 10:38 AM
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If the shroud is melted, you have a problem. That alternator is shot already. Rear bearing is probably fried.

You need to pull and clean all 12v and ground connections to and from your battery and alternator. Follow each cable everywhere it goes. Clean all grounds, and the mating surfaces. Then get a new alternator. I suggest a quality unit with a good warranty.
Old 04-12-2004, 11:22 AM
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I have also been having this problem. The alternator goes out ALL the time. Where should the ground be located. Also, is it worth getting an aftermarket alternator?
Old 04-13-2004, 06:14 PM
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Bad grounds and shorts will affect both the alternator & battery, they are paralleled all the time, and are not electrically isolated from one another. How is it the battery is surviving these alternator failures? The PCM pulses field current to the alternator as neccessary (for generator output) to mainatain electrical system voltage & put amp/hrs back into the battery. Could it be that there'* a glitch in the PCM keeping the alternator in conduction all the time with maximum charging current? Melting plastic is caused by high heat, high current. Or there'* nothing wrong electrically & it is the rear bearing, but 15 alternators?
Old 04-14-2004, 12:36 AM
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yea 15! I checked every connection from the positive all the way around then the neg and there no chewed wires(from field mice) or no loose connections. Whats next?
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