Let us know what you find.

Mine were burnt out and rusted so badly in the socket I had to clip them at the wires and use pigtails to wire in new sockets.

thanks havnt had time to look at them , but its on the list



dose anyone have or can point me too a digram of were all the vacuum lines are, i searched all i can find is a digram for a super charged motor

thanks

put the new air filter in seemd to run smoother , still with high idle , drove it, wouldn't stall i tried hard breaking and light breaking , thought all was good , pulling back in the drive way about half way down i gave the gas pedal a quick shot , stalled , started right back up , pull around back put it in park idles high but not stalling gave it a quick shot of throttle and stalled .... vacumm leak ?

used carb cleaner on the vacuum lines i could see , nothing no change in idle ,

also should i be wiping the carb cleaner off of everywhere i spray ?

also dose 2000rpm @ 40mph sound right ?

I'm starting to lean towards your EGR valve being bad.......

Have your car scanned as soon as you can

If you need a EGR valve, I have one I can sell you. Its practically new...

Don't forget to spray around the EGR, and around the injectors. No need to wipe it down, it will dry. Have you checked your PCV valve? Did you test your throttle position sensor? These are also possibilitys in stalling. Did you check the throttle body for excessive deposits? More possibilitys are bad coil, bad plugs, bad plug wires, restricted exhaust, (plugged cat)

IMHO, for somebody starting out, the Chilton'* is far better than the Haynes. Although I haven't seen a Chilton'* at Rice Central or Advance, in a couple of years. Maybe they are out of print. Chilton'* covers more usual components, and how to get them in and out (by model and year). plus better diagrams directly from the FSM.

Chilton'* also provides associated vocabulary a novice needs to actually find something in the FSMs. Whose indexes were obviously prepared by a team of monkeys working around the clock for a week. the FSMs are a must-have, but take a particular aptitude to easily utilize.

flaox.... get the codes. your problem could be air, fuel, electrical, or electronic. That'* just about everything. Give these guys something to work with.

Now I'll shut up and continue to try to find out why my fuel system functions similar to a bellyflop.

Holiday Monday tomorrow, so all i can to is keep testing, will stop at the mechanics on Tuesday after work and see if his apprentice has time to scan my car ( if hes even there might be taking a weeks holidays) , ill get it scanned ASAP.

also will i get a "check gauges" light if my fuel is low ? i figured it would be a low fuel light.

At least I'm getting to know were everything is on my car .

thanks everyone for your help so far .

Low fuel will give you a "check gages" light.

Reverse/back-up lights: they don't work at all ,all other lights work, any ideas?

Here are some quick checks to rule out the obvious.
1. Check fuse T/SIG/BU LP/ BTSI #1B in the instrument panel fuse box.
I don't think that fuse will be blown because the rest of the lights work.
2. I would now check for power and ground at the bulbs themselves. Hopefully you have failed bulbs.
If not the ground should be on the left side of the trunk. Make sure it has a good connector and is not corroded.

If these don't fix it you will need to check the power side of the circuit.
3, Go under the car to the park neutral switch. Use a volt/ohm meter and measure voltage at pin B. It should be a pink wire.
If you don't have power here. than you most likely have a wiring issue between the switch and the fuse.
4. Next check pin the F terminal, a light green wire. To do this you need key on engine off with the car in reverse. this is the output to the rear lights. If you have no voltage here than most likely the switch in internally failed.

Try this to start and let us know