1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Air not coming out of vents - 1993 SE

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Old 06-26-2006, 06:12 PM
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Is this what I have to check even if I get a vacuum from the black line when I disconnect it from the purple line? I will try both, check the vacuum hose and try and take out any obstructions tongiht when i get home.
Old 06-26-2006, 08:39 PM
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The black vacuum can does feed the purple line.. therefore...unless it'* plugged or something else is odd...

I'm stumped
Old 06-26-2006, 09:44 PM
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With a manual climate control, the violet line leads to the back of the climate control head selector switch. From there, there will be a white, orange, blue and green line. These lines lead to the vacuum actuators. First, verify that there is vacuum present in the violet line right at the selector switch as there is an additional connection after the black to violet junction. Since the individual lines do not remove from the "connector" without damage, try to rig up a small length of vacuum line from the violet line to it'* appropriate terminal on the switch. Select different positions on the selector switch and verify that vacuum moves from one terminal to another. Bi-Level is a little tricky as there should be vacuum on two of the lines rather than just one.

File photo of Selector switch assembly with vacuum lines attached:
Old 06-26-2006, 11:04 PM
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Wow... I had a fun time tonight. I tried the manual cleaning of the heater box as described in here http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=63. I took out the relay rail, and blower resistor as described. I don't have brake cleaner so I sprayed with castrol degreaser (purple bottle). I then took a hose as described and sprayed maybe 10 - 15 seconds worth. Maybe I should spray longer? I didn't want to risk getting water in the interior... The water was driping out of the heater box as expected. I waited like a few minutes and then turned on the car. Not much change if at all.

Bah. I think all I did was lose the nut that holds the relay rail to the firewall.

It seems as though the manual bonneville does not have a hvac programmer at all? Good to know!

How do I get to the back side of the selector switch assembly? I really don't want to remove the dash nor know how to... My bonneville is in amazing condition except for this problem. I don't want to trash it up that much :(
Old 06-26-2006, 11:26 PM
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This can help with dash trim removal:

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereor...Bonneville.htm

Basically the trim pulls off by releasing several clips. The Climate control head is secured with 7mm screws.
Old 06-30-2006, 10:49 PM
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gah. i took off the dash and i have access to the climate control head. except i have no idea how to test the vacuum lines. but i'm a little confused about what you mean by this:

Since the individual lines do not remove from the "connector" without damage, try to rig up a small length of vacuum line from the violet line to it'* appropriate terminal on the switch. Select different positions on the selector switch and verify that vacuum moves from one terminal to another. Bi-Level is a little tricky as there should be vacuum on two of the lines rather than just one.
Old 07-01-2006, 09:58 PM
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The colored lines are adhered into the transparent, rubbery connector of sorts that connects to the selector switch. You can disconnect the lines from the selector switch together but you can not remove individual lines from the transparent, rubbery thing. The idea is to connect a vacuum source to the input of the selector switch (the one that corresponds to the violet line) in order to perform the tests. If you pulled the violet line from the transparent rubbery thing, the line would most likely break leaving a small amount in the connector and a difficult repair.

Buy a vacuum splice kit that contains 1/8", 3/16", etc splices and a small length of vacuum line so you can plug the splice into the violet line and on the corresponding terminal on the selector switch. Now you can test the selector switch for diversion of the vacuum source to the individual acutators.
Old 07-01-2006, 10:52 PM
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Hello
Not usre exactly where your at in your fix now. You ruled out the dirty coil thing and now have you looked under the passenger dash for you vacuum lines? That junction is where I had my problems. Let'* talk on Sunday.
Old 07-04-2006, 12:24 AM
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I took another look at the car today. This time, I tried out what randman described. First, I disconnected the "rubber" attachment to the selector assembly (the one with all the lines going into the switch). I didn't bother to go out to buy a vacuum splice kit, so I got lucky with some heat shrink tubing that fit into the violet line of the "rubber" attachment. I connected the heatshrink from the "rubber" to where the violet line is supposed to go on the switch unit.

This is what I discovered:

a) Selecting air blowing out the foot vents (white coloured on the switch), air was being suctioned from where the white line leads.

b) Selecting air blowing out the dash vents (white coloured on the switch), air was being suctioned from where the green and navy blue lines lead.

c) Selecting a/c bilevel (blue coloured on the switch), air was being suctioned from where the green line leads.

Now, I am not 100% sure of these, as tested these by testing the vacuums with my fingers and listening with my ears to see if the suction noise stops. I am 95% sure though.

Also, the three electrical lines to the selector switch at times got quite warm, I'd say maybe 40 - 50 degrees celsius. I'm not sure if this is a sign that the selector switch has maybe failed.

I was missing a fuse on the 10 amp a/c programmer by the foot of the passenger panel... This isn't a problem because I don't have an a/c programmer correct?
Old 07-05-2006, 12:16 PM
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bump bump bump.


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