96 bonneville no power
12-04-2006, 11:16 AM
#1
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96 bonneville no power
My '96 Bonneville SE randomly has no power. It happens at highway speeds or waiting
at a stop sign. The engine remains idling and pressing the gas pedal has no effect.
If I shut the engine off and restart everything runs normally. There is no check engine
indicator on to get an error code.
at a stop sign. The engine remains idling and pressing the gas pedal has no effect.
If I shut the engine off and restart everything runs normally. There is no check engine
indicator on to get an error code.
12-04-2006, 01:32 PM
#2
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
When you say no power, you mean power to move the car and not no electric for lights etc correct?
Has anything been done or any other symptoms recently?
Has anything been done or any other symptoms recently?
12-04-2006, 01:43 PM
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'96 Bonneville no power
There is no effect by pressing the gas pedal - everything else is ok. It'* like the
engine is stuck in idle. By turning off the car and restarting you wouldn't think there
was a problem.
engine is stuck in idle. By turning off the car and restarting you wouldn't think there
was a problem.
12-04-2006, 01:46 PM
#4
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Ok, I noticed you said there was no check engine light on.
Please have the car scanned for codes. Many codes require two consectutive or more times for the light to be turned on. Meanwhile, a code does get stored.
Please have the car scanned for codes. Many codes require two consectutive or more times for the light to be turned on. Meanwhile, a code does get stored.
12-04-2006, 01:49 PM
#5
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That sounds a lot like your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is going ker-plooey, though it'* hard to say exactly without further investigation and diagnosis.
Are you sure your CEL is working?
Even if it is, and you are not getting a light, I would recommend getting a scanner on it to scan what is going on. There should be some sort of fault that can be detected, CEL or not.
Are you sure your CEL is working?
Even if it is, and you are not getting a light, I would recommend getting a scanner on it to scan what is going on. There should be some sort of fault that can be detected, CEL or not.
12-04-2006, 01:50 PM
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'96 Bonneville no power
I've had a scan done for codes - none. This problem has been happening since April '06.
I changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay.
I changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay.
12-04-2006, 01:54 PM
#7
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No, I'm not talking about a code reader. I'm talking about a scan tool that actively scans while the car is running. A code reader will only give you info if a code is set. A scanner can show you where a voltage is low or other active fault.
Besides this doesn't sound as much like a fuel delivery problem as much as it sounds like a failure to sense that the accelerator has been pressed. Therefore my mention of the TPS.
Besides this doesn't sound as much like a fuel delivery problem as much as it sounds like a failure to sense that the accelerator has been pressed. Therefore my mention of the TPS.
12-04-2006, 02:00 PM
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'96 Bonneville no power
Thanks Chad V. The dealer did the scan and their repair was the filter and relay
replacement. When I returned to say the problem was still there they checked it
again and said everything was ok. I think what they mean't was thanks for the
$280.00 to replace parts that were not faulty.
replacement. When I returned to say the problem was still there they checked it
again and said everything was ok. I think what they mean't was thanks for the
$280.00 to replace parts that were not faulty.
12-04-2006, 02:36 PM
#9
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Its' lash, and I really meant an active scan, with the car running and the scanner on, you drive until you experience the problem and your passenger gets the readings from the scanner. But since you don't have a scanner and your dealer isn't listening to you...
Here'* a bit I found on autorepair101:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question395.htm
Excerpt:
Now I don't think that your TPS is adjustable, but if it were me I would certainly do the first step in diagnosis. That is to check for loose connector or wires at the TPS.
Since I don't have my FSM here with me, I can't walk you through a diagnosis right now, but maybe someone else has theirs with them.
Here'* a bit I found on autorepair101:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question395.htm
Excerpt:
Handling No Trouble Code Problems
Your car has a problem. So, naturally, the first thing you do is check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes to see what the problem is. But there are no codes. So now what do you do?
Checking The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Function:
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is used to send input signals to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to indicate the current angle of the throttle blade.
Theory/Operation:
This sensor is a variable resistor that has a 5 volt reference signal applied to it by the PCM. The TPS sends signals back to the PCM in the range of approximately 1 to 4 volts, depending upon the throttle shaft angle. The PCM uses these input voltages to determine the current position of the throttle.
The PCM uses the voltage signals from the TPS and other input sensors to determine the proper air/fuel mixture and ignition timing for certain operating conditions. Some of these operating conditions are: acceleration, deceleration, idle, and wide open throttle.
Your car has a problem. So, naturally, the first thing you do is check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes to see what the problem is. But there are no codes. So now what do you do?
Checking The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Function:
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is used to send input signals to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to indicate the current angle of the throttle blade.
Theory/Operation:
This sensor is a variable resistor that has a 5 volt reference signal applied to it by the PCM. The TPS sends signals back to the PCM in the range of approximately 1 to 4 volts, depending upon the throttle shaft angle. The PCM uses these input voltages to determine the current position of the throttle.
The PCM uses the voltage signals from the TPS and other input sensors to determine the proper air/fuel mixture and ignition timing for certain operating conditions. Some of these operating conditions are: acceleration, deceleration, idle, and wide open throttle.
Since I don't have my FSM here with me, I can't walk you through a diagnosis right now, but maybe someone else has theirs with them.
12-04-2006, 03:19 PM
#10
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True Car Nut
OK, a few more things...
First a quote from a google car repair forum:
So what you need to do is carefully inspect all wiring and connectors that lead to the TPS. It'* possible the problem is with the TPS wiring. Carefully trace each wire from the TPS wiring harness to check for breaks, rubbing against other components, etc.
Then check the voltage at the TPS. If the voltage spikes or is too high (over 4.65 volts with key on, engine off), then that is indicative of a problem. Then test your TPS through it'* range for any worn spots on the resistor that would cause your "dropout". I'm having trouble finding the test method post (for some unknown reason), but your voltage should be between 0.4 and 5 volts. in your case a drop in voltage as the accelerator is pressed indicates a bad spot on the TPS and indicates you need a replacement.
First a quote from a google car repair forum:
Depending on what is wrong with the TPS the symptoms could include (but
not limited to):
1. No start due to false WOT reading causing "clear flood" mode.
2. Hesitation, dropout, etc due to intermittant bad spot.
3. High idle around 2000 RPM due to TPS not showing idle position, ECM
opens IAC in a "dashpot" mode to prevent stalling when throttle is
suddenly released (but throttle IS already released).
Unless a TPS is shorted or open it rarely sets a code.
not limited to):
1. No start due to false WOT reading causing "clear flood" mode.
2. Hesitation, dropout, etc due to intermittant bad spot.
3. High idle around 2000 RPM due to TPS not showing idle position, ECM
opens IAC in a "dashpot" mode to prevent stalling when throttle is
suddenly released (but throttle IS already released).
Unless a TPS is shorted or open it rarely sets a code.
Then check the voltage at the TPS. If the voltage spikes or is too high (over 4.65 volts with key on, engine off), then that is indicative of a problem. Then test your TPS through it'* range for any worn spots on the resistor that would cause your "dropout". I'm having trouble finding the test method post (for some unknown reason), but your voltage should be between 0.4 and 5 volts. in your case a drop in voltage as the accelerator is pressed indicates a bad spot on the TPS and indicates you need a replacement.