I am still experiencing intermittant problems with 92 SSEi. The crazy thing runs GREAT in the morning (except it won't idle until it warms up a little -- it stalls. Gotta hold RPM above 1200). In the afternoon, even when it has warmed up it bogs, and if you snap the throttle in neutral it gets all choppy. Idles crappy. When you are rolling out from a stop it shudders, then takes off like a A300 Airbus on NOS!

Here'* the punchline: It doesn't do this all the time! It has bad days-it has good days. I also notice that today has been more humid, and the temps were around 80. The other day it ran great, and it was 68 and the air was dry. During Hurricane Ivan'* stomp through here, it was pukey.

Should I ditch my "ricer" intake and switch back to stock airbox? What does the air temp sensor in the box do? I installed it in the new intake, but it is in the direct airstream, not off to the side. Do I have a sensor problem.

Kinda pulling the hair out here

Sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing. I've tried cleaning the TB, swapping MAF TPS and IAC. I'm going to replace my lower intake gaskets as soon as they show up (It was supposded to happen today). We'll see if that fixes it.

I'm kind of thinking more and more that it feels like a tranny thing. Try this for me, Next time it'* bogging cruise at some speed, Tap the gas to the floor, then let off back to idle, Then while the motor is still revved apply enough pedal pressure to accelerate 20mph. That'* a wierd feeling....

sounds like a bad or dirty idle air control valve to me.

I have a 92SSEI that had the same kind of problem. In the morning, the car wouldn't idle. Unless I kept the idle around 1500-2000 rpm, the engine would stall. When the motor was fully warm, the stalling stopped and the car ran fine for the remainder of the day.

The problem was with either the cam or crankshaft sensor which controls the engine'* timing. Your experience with increased performance may be due to the timing being advanced somewhat...or not! As you noted, your car runs fine sometimes, and other times you get bogged down.

If a garage determines that either of these sensors are bad, just replace both of them. The mechanic has to pull off the harmonic balancer to get to the sensors which is the most labor intensive part of the job. The sensors are cheap, but the cost of labor to get to them is not.

By the way, my Bonneville had over 120,000 miles when this occured.

Good luck!

Today, the thing ran worse than ever. < performance

It isn't a tranny problem, but if you stay out of overdrive at lower speeds it behaves better. I think it has to do more with engine speed (RPM'*). Staying in "Perform shift" helped some too.

The "ricer" intake is in the trunk. The stock box is back on. Air filter is new. Still rough, and even stalled at idle AFTER warming up to 180-190 deg.

I am running Bosch single plats. Receipt indicates they were installed 8/3/2003 (1 year) I am running Bosch +2'* in my wife'* car, and that 3.1 will snap yer head back! Wires are brand new (see sig). Maybe I should spring for the +4'*. My '89 SE went 55k with virtually no wear, so I'm a firm believer in Bosch plugs. Jury'* still out on the O2s though... I like Borg Warner.

I have had a SES light since I've had the car (July 9, 2004). I have a "58" VATS code (which is nothing -- wilren already told me that) and a... lo and behold, "41". That code is a cam position sensor failure. A quick check of the receipt file I got with the car tells me the crank pos sensor was replaced recently -- but NO mention of the cam sen.

A quick visual check of the sensor: looks original.

I bought a cam sensor. Next time I can get to that job will be Sat morning. Borrow the wife'* Regal tomorrow for work.

Judging by the way it drove, if you place the engine in ANY situation that requires advanced timing, it tried to buy the farm. I think we may have our culprit. The only other thing it could be is vacuum issues. I replaced the supercharger -- it may have to be re-torqued after being driven. The plenum may be leaking.

I'll let you all know what I get Saturday.

The intake is NOT your problem.
Running Platinum plugs in an SSEi IS a problem.
Code 41 IS a problem.

Put the rice pipe back on, change your plugs to Copper (NGK TR55 will do, or Irridiums, just not Plats), change the cam sensor, and be on your way.

Cool, You got a code. I think I'll do the sensor tests on mine since I have no codes... After the gaskets of course.

When you are changing out the cam position sensor, get a mirror and a flashlight and with the sensor out of the hole, use them to look in at the cam gear as you turn the crank by hand with a wrench. Make sure the cam sensor'* interrupter magnet is in place and all there. It is pretty common for these little magnets to self-destruct.

I think wilren has nailed it. NGK plugs are fantastic -- I even ran em in an old '78 D150 I had last year. I'll ditch the plats, reinstall the ricer, and install the sensor. I am glad that it isn't a vacuum leak -- I used GM original gaskets on the 'charger job.

Um... it looks kind of hard taking the cam sensor out. Do you need to remove the water pump pully for access, or just drop the serp belts and reach in there?

Question for Admin:

a: What does the air cleaner temp sensor do?

b. Should I modify the ricer intake so sensor is out of main air stream?

Thanks!