Aaarrrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!!
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Aaarrrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!!
""""Prepare to remove crossover pipe Removal of the exhaust crossover pipe is optional. Beware! Attempting to remove a crossover pipe with very badly rusted bolts can result in the bolts breaking requiring significant additional work to replace them"""".
So I did this, I was going slow and using PB blast,
Spray, let soak 15 min, try repeat go back and forth with the bolt
It was going great the last lower bolt THEN SNAP
How do I fix the broken bolt?????????????????
Regards,
James
So I did this, I was going slow and using PB blast,
Spray, let soak 15 min, try repeat go back and forth with the bolt
It was going great the last lower bolt THEN SNAP
How do I fix the broken bolt?????????????????
Regards,
James
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Sorry to say your best bet is to pull the manifold and drill it out. You might, and I say MIGHT get it out with a easy out. More then likely you will have to drill and tap. Which one was it, the front or the back? I just did a write up on installing headers, and that information would be helpful in removing the manifold. If you need it let me know and I'll open it for the public early.
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It was the back lower their is almost an inch sticking out the back and it is fluch with the front of the mating plate. I would appreciate any info.
Regards,
James
Regards,
James
Sorry to say your best bet is to pull the manifold and drill it out. You might, and I say MIGHT get it out with a easy out. More then likely you will have to drill and tap. Which one was it, the front or the back? I just did a write up on installing headers, and that information would be helpful in removing the manifold. If you need it let me know and I'll open it for the public early.
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Sorry to hear that, man. Like Danthurs says it a big "might". I snapped an exhaust bolt and tried the easy out, way out. What a pain!!! I ended up snapping the hardened easy out in the hole I drilled and it was a pain deserving many expletives to drill it AND the snapped bolt out.
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Alright, I posted it in the open, it should be ready for viewing.
https://www.gmforum.com/t277839/#post1353414
Now this is for headers but the basics are the same. Go down to the rear manifold section and follow along. Follow each step and it will be easy. figure about a hour out, and a hour in. Plus what ever time you need to fix the problem. don't skip any steps on the rear manifold or many will hear words you don't want them to hear. I've done several rear manifolds and I've gotten it down pretty smooth. Chances are, you wont get the stud out. I suggest drilling it out and use a bolt.
https://www.gmforum.com/t277839/#post1353414
Now this is for headers but the basics are the same. Go down to the rear manifold section and follow along. Follow each step and it will be easy. figure about a hour out, and a hour in. Plus what ever time you need to fix the problem. don't skip any steps on the rear manifold or many will hear words you don't want them to hear. I've done several rear manifolds and I've gotten it down pretty smooth. Chances are, you wont get the stud out. I suggest drilling it out and use a bolt.
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I've seen that to many times. And I'll see it again soon. I'm installing a set of PEMs for a member soon. That'* the manifold with the nut welded on right? Just drill it out, or over size it and tap. Can't remember teh tap size for that off the top of my head, but the rear one is metric.
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I think I am going to try and drill it out and tap it first, it that don't work I will drill it and install a bolt.
Does that sound plausible?
Regards,
James
Does that sound plausible?
Regards,
James
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I will tell you, I would not have removed the crossover but the small 8mm bolt holding the upper brace to the TB will not come out, it is not really 8mm and it has got a chamfer of about 8 degrees.
I can't get any of my sockets to fit it with out slipping.
Regards,
James
I can't get any of my sockets to fit it with out slipping.
Regards,
James