Ok heres the update. The car wont start at all. I called a local dealer as well as a recommended auto shop about 15 miles away. The dealer was a few dollars cheaper and closer so I figured I'll get it towed there ( Geico covered). They told me they can do the upper manifold and lower gaskets and oil and coolant change for $630+tax ( other guy was a few dollars more ). Then I get there and all of a sudden the guy ( even though I gave him all the details on the phone ) tells me it seems like a I have coolant in the cylinders so they need to be drained and compression tested to see if they are damaged and at the minumum also new spark plugs so thats gonna be another two hours of labor @ $120/hour. So now I'm like WTF! I dont even know the car is worth that much. I'm gonna call the other guy in the morning and see what he says about that situation and consider towing it to him ( I get 10 miles free towing so thats not an issue ). So what do you all think ? Thanks in advance.

I charge $250 plus gaskets for that job. It'* not real hard to do. Pull the plugs, turn the engine over and the coolant comes out. New plugs. Remove the UIM, replace gasket and close it back up. Perhaps 4 hours and basic tools. We even have a write up here on how to do it.

$250 for draining the coolant from the cylinders and then replacing the UIM? What about that bit they told me about needing to pressure test the system to make sure the cylinders are not shot ? What about replacing the LIM? I've tried looking for the write up but no luck so if anyone can post the link I'd appreciate it. At this point, I wouldnt mind trying it myself if its not too hard, however once I factor in the price of the tools and parts, saving a couple hundred over a legit shop is not worth it to me because I barely have time after work these days.

Damn it this is one more reason I hate Long Island and the NY metro area. Too hard to find a honest and skilled mechanic.

https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-134/uim-lim-gaskets-l36-297702/

If you have that much coolant in the cylinders then I'd bet the UIM has cracked and filled them up. This will be evident once you remove the UIM. You will probabaly see Dexcool in the LIM everywhere.

Here'* what you need once you get the coolant out of the cylinders...

http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts...kit-17806.html

If you scroll all the way down to the bottom of that link, it also shows the Aluminum LOWER gasket set that is needed.

Get some GM gray sealant or black RTV as well. 6 new plugs. 7 quarts of cheap oil and a cheap filter, then 6 quarts of quality oil and a quality filter.

From there it'* just nuts and bolts and a few o-rings. Probabaly can be done in a weekend for a first-timer such as yourself. Also, since you have to remove the TB to change out the UIM, clean the entire TB including the blade inside. It will be covered in carbon. Make sure you remove all the electronics from it (IAC, TPS, MAF) first. Then clean the MAF w/ approved cleaner as well as it is probably dirty by now. MAF cleaning instructions can be found on here I'm sure. CRC sells MAF cleaning fluid at most Autozone/Oreillys. And when removing the LIM, don't forget there is a hidden bolt in the pass. side rear corner of the LIM, and another in the driver side front corner. These will most likely be covered by a pool of oil and not noticed right away until you try and pry the LIM off and realize it'* not moving, lol...

The reason for the 7 quarts of cheap oil is to use 1 of them to wash the lifter valley out while you have the LIM off. Then once you reassemble everything you change the oil BEFORE you start the car using the other 6 quarts of cheap oil/filter. Idle for a few minutes then change the oil again, this time using the good oil/filter. This will ensure that all the coolant is out of where it doesn't belong (your bearings).

Then you just have to fight to bleed all the air from the cooling system and call it done! And you just saved yourself $400.

If you look on top of the UIM, you will find a arrow and it will say hidden bolt. They are inside the LIM. Like stated, covered with oil and grime. I've done many of these, and it'* not hard. Only thing I suggest is be careful once the LIM is off. Cover the lifter valley with a rag, you don't want anything falling in there.

Yea, forgot about telling him to plug all the holes so nothing drops in. You wouldn't want, say, the small bolt that holds the evap solenoid to the front pass. dogbone brace falling down into the runner for cyl. 1

I will give it credit though it did run surprisingly well for a 5 cylinder. A bit noisy, but ran

After 21 years of working on cars I guess it was due. Worst self-induced failure of my wrenching life.

Could have been worse. One guy here forgot to tighten the lifter brackets. Guess how that turned out.

Yea, I could have ruined the trans as well, lol.. I lunched #1 piston completely. After getting the new motor in and running I dug through the oil pan of the old one to get the pieces out. The top was still in the cylinder being held together by the rings. The rest was ripped from the wrist pin and floating in the pan. Too bad the wrist pin hammered the cyl wall otherwise I would consider rebuilding it.

On the upside I've reused parts from it to repair my 95 Bonne, so I guess it'* not a total loss.

Word to the wise- If you EVER loose a bolt, follow your gut instinct and pull the dang head to find it. Don't assume it'* the bolt you found jammed in between the exhaust manifiold outside the motor.