Originally Posted by jumackey
alright I took off the upper intake manifold and lower intake manifold and of course it was full of coolant... now the car has been sitting for 6 months like this is it just worthless now??? and if its still worth a try to just put in the new UIM and gaskets LIM gaskets and see what happens what should I do about cleaning out everything?
Sure, it'* worth a try. Put an APN upper on it and the GM aluminum frame gaskets using just a dab of rtv silicone in the corner joints between the aluminum frame pieces on the heads and the rubber side rail seals on the block. Use just enough silicone to seal the ends of the side rails to the aluminum frame pieces to prevent an oil leak at the corners. You'll have $200 invested.
If when you fire it up, you find the bearings were damaged by coolant, (it won't be long before you either hear a knock or spin a rod bearing), you can remove all the parts you just installed and use them to properly seal the top end of any junkyard engine you buy for it. All of the gaskets, the UIM and the new stovepipe from the first engine can be swapped to the new engine. The silicone sealing beads in those gaskets will remain sufficiently resilient to be re-used for at least several months. By that time you will know if you need a replacement engine. If you have to install a junkyard engine, spend another $12 and replace the crankshaft rear seal before you install it. That seal cannot be replaced without pulling either the engine or the trans.
Drain the coolant in the engine and do not refill until repairs are completed. Drain the oil and install a new, cheap filter.
Use a turkey baster to suck up all the oil and coolant from the top of the LIM. Sop up the remainder with towels so you don't dump more coolant into the crankcase when you remove the LIM. When you remove the LIM, suck up any coolant you see in any crevices and then blow it out with air holding a towel above it if you have compressed air available.
Especially important if the engine was hydrolocked, but good to know before you do a lot of repair work, with coolant drained, pull all the spark plugs and make sure the engine will turn over by hand. That will safely expel any coolant that has collected in the cylinders. If you can't turn it over by hand with the plugs out, or feel a metal to metal click or resistance at one point of the crank'* revolution, you probably have a bent connecting rod. If it turns over easily by hand, that is a good sign. Leave the spark plugs out.
To encourage the flushing of any coolant that has accumulated in the pan, you can pour the first quart of oil through with the oil drain plug removed.
You can do a preliminary cleaning after repairs are made by filling with a light weight (5W-30) inexpensive oil and filter, running it for just a few minutes, then changing the oil and filter. Run the next batch of oil and filter to operating temperature, then change oil and filter again.
But, for the best possible chance of saving the engine, you can flush the bearings with new oil as soon as possible and before you repair it or start it. Make sure there is no coolant in the engine and that fresh oil and filter have been installed. Then spin the engine for several minutes with the spark plugs removed using a really heavy 1/2" drill. The starter is not designed for this kind of use. (I rent a big Milwaukee drill from the local rent it store for $10.) Buy a cheap, 1/2" drive extension; cut off the female end and grind three or six flats on the shaft for the drill chuck to get a good grip. Remove the RF wheel and splash shield, slip a socket on the crank pulley bolt and circulate the oil with the drill.