Hello everyone, first time posting here, I did search the forum first but could not find the info I was looking for. If I missd it I am sorry for a repaeat post. I thought I had a starter problem, I still could but after my searching I see it could be the VATS key, anyhow, Im at the point of no return at removing the starter to no just take it out and have it checked. My problem is that I for the life of me cannot get the plastic housing off of the front of the starter. I tried to just lossen the bolts and pull the starter out from it but the housing prevents the bolts from dropping out. I did take the 2 bolts out and removed the shield from between the starter and oil pan but it seems the starter shield it "locked" between the starter and crossmember. DO I have to jack the engine up to remove the shield? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Darrin

Welcome to Bonneville club, Darrin. Lots of great help and fun here! As you have found, there are two pieces to the plastic shield that goes around the starter. The lower one you have off - make sure you have removed all the bolts from the front plastic piece, but put the big vertical starter bolts back in and put the starter back up where it belongs. The plastic piece will be pinched by the starter if it is not up in place. If it is cold where you are, get a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the plastic up. That will make it easier to twist it while you pull and wiggle - which is what you have to do to get it off and on. You should not have to raise the motor. Make note how it comes off so you will know how to get it back on.

Yea those can suck, you really do have to contort those to get them off. They're pretty strong though, so don't be afraid to get a SMIDGE rough with it.

Copied this from an earlier post for you, Darrin.

Jack up and safely support the front of the car.
Remove the big plastic splash shield that'* attached to the front crossmember under the front of the car. Most of the fasteners will be 10mm.
Remove the negative battery cable (5/16") and push it away so it can't touch the battery.
Remove the plastic cover (*) from the bottom of the bell housing and up around the starter (More 10mm bolts - wiggle and twist to get it out)
Unbolt the electrical connectors on the starter.
Remove the two vertical bolts that hold the starter up (15 mm?)
Drop the starter out (May have to twist and turn a bit.)
Make careful note of any shims that were used.
Clean the area where the starter contacts the engine/bellhousing (Starter ground connection is made there and it draws lots of current.)
Install the new starter with the same thickness of shims you removed.
Series II engines: Some cheap, rebuilt starters come with through-bolts that are too long - if yours extend more than 1/4" on the passenger end, you will need to cut the excess off the top bolt to clear the knock sensor.
Re-do the electrical connections.
Try the starter before lowering the car.
If the starter binds, or makes a loud noise, add shims until it sounds normal.
Re-install the splash shield(*)

just twist and yank carefully thru the platic shield, its what i did. same for reinstalling it.

Thank you all for the fast replies, I did finally get it, although it wasnt pretty, upon yanking it, it broke into 3 pieces, fortunately GM parts direct has 1 and it is only 6 and some change plus shipping. When it did break I did notice a chunk of ice come flying off from under the starter between the crossmember, it must have been frozen there or something, anyhow off to the store to see if its bad or not. If the starter is bad or not, lesson learned here is to search this forum before jumping in to check stuff out, after all it could be as simple as the VAT'* problem.


Darrin

starter was bad, installed new one, and it sounds like it needs to be shimmed. I did not see any shims when I removed the old one, the new one is a reman duralast from AutoZone. Is it normal to have to add shims when none where installed with the old one?

Darrin

I think some of the cheaper rebuilds do need shims where maybe the original did not. The cheapo rebuild I put in my '95 required extra shims. Autozone should have shims for the starter; if not, the dealer will. They can't cost much.