Hey, can you update your profile with your location? And your signature with your model and year.....it'll help

Okay, got some checking done. The thickness of the ice all around the car is a minimum of 3 inches ... wait, wrong things to check!

Fuse #5 in the maxifuse center is for VATS? That one is OK, as are the others there. Checked fuses 1A, 5A, 1B, 5C, 1D, those were all good. Swapped 1B with the spare at 2C just to be sure. I think 1B was labeled for VATS or ignition as well. Took off the negative battery cable as a safety precaution, then re-tightened the cables on the starter.

Still no joy, so in a short while here (after I warm up!) I'll check for voltage, and check the wires. Where are the yellow wire and the starter relay located?

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Maxifuse relay center under the hood. I don't remember which one! Fan relay and horn relay are also in there.

All righty then ... black wire looks good, feels solid. Purple looks good, too, can't see any damaged places or abrasions/cracks on either. Also checked voltage at the starter, good 12. Need to get back out and pull relays trying to find the starter relay and yellow wire. 8~)

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BTW, would that yellow wire at the starter relay by any chance present itself as one of the yellow wires at the ignition switch connector block? I can't seem to locate it at the relay center, so maybe ...

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Well, may not be the best thing in the world, but after browsing other locations on the 'net, I tried shorting the terminals on the starter solenoid. With the ignition key in the run position, shoring the terminals engaged the starter, and the engine started. Let it run for a few minutes, then I shut it off.

Should I just forget about the key start and put in a starter button?

The yellow wire at the relay goes to the ignition switch, yes! Actually there are two yellow wires, one goes to the ignition switch, the other to the Park/Neutral position switch.

However, the correct key must be used to close the ignition switch. Your existing key has a resistor pellet in it with a specific resistance. Your new key must have exactly the same resistance otherwise it won't work.

I bet if you jumped the yellow/black wire on the relay to ground, and then turned the key it would crank, but it may not continue to run because the Pass-Key II will disable fuel.

Okay, does that mean that I need a new key that will match the new ignition switch? I didn't put a new lock mechanism in, just the new switch module.

Or should I forget about getting it to crank with the key and just continue to install the push-button start switch?

Oh, OK, so you're using the same key and resistor pellet. Instead of installing the pushbutton you ought to try jumping the yellow/black wire to ground on the starter enable relay and tell us what you get when you turn the key on.

I'm worried that you may have your fuel disabled, too, if the pass-key II is not sensing the right key.

Do you have access to the factory repair manual, maybe at a library or something like that?

Is that the relay in the maxi center? I have yet to positively identify that. That'* why I was asking about the yellow wires at the ignition switch connector block. Same question for the yellow/black, or to ground those/that wire (more than one?) does that have to be done at the starter relay?

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