166k mileage 3.8 L.when i first got the car back on the road again for the 2nd or 3rd time last summer and while i had the tranny problem it would stall when coming to a light from highway or street driving as if it just loses it'* signal.this doesn't happen anymore.i got codes :p1406-egr pintle position,p1561- cruise control vent solenoid(cruise never worked) and,p0300-misfire detected..the first and easiest thing to do was change the plugs and wires.this had no effect it still ran a little rough and the check engine light still came on.so i swapped them all back out and got my money back.when i start the car it starts right up but runs slightly rough and fluctuating a bit.when i put the car into drive and slightly put my foot on the gas to drive 5-10 mph it bucks and lunges.if i put my foot on pedal to take off it skips once and takes off.if i'm at highway speed and want to maintain that speed i feel it lunging a bit as if it'* missing slightly.same goes for street speed where it is more noticeable at missing.i know what a misfire feels like from not firing a plug, i had that happen weeks ago when one of the plug wires melted against the exhaust.this feels different.i checked with a dummy light tester the tps and the lights show a smooth slide up the scale.to me it feels like a bad tps but i'm not sure.the check engine light comes on more frequently now than it did in the past..it always comes on when it'* foggy or raining now. i cleaned the maf and the iac sensors weeks ago with the special cleaner,no change...any ideas?thanks

Who in the world, puts in new plugs and wires, and then takes them back out?

Did you do a coil output check?

Check compression while you had the plugs out?

I believe for that year, a high end scan tool, like a Tech II, can detect which cylinder is misfiring.......

Can you make it misfire in the bay, in drive, under a load with brake on?

Is the P1406 code still around? This can cause a whole world of issues (these included) if the EGR is stuck open. It'* essentially a massive vacuum leak that is sucking exhaust uncontrolled. If it is still popping that code, pull the EGR and have a look.

It doesn't take much to pull misfire data on this gen. I can view misfire data on my Actron CP9145. If you can scan live data, you can immediately rule out TPS issues, because the TPS data will show on the scanner. It'* how I spotted a bad TPS causing shifting issues on the PA, even before it started popping TPS related codes.

it'* been so long since I fixed that issue.. I forgot to reply sooner and don't remember all of the details now but it was definitely a bad egr doing the loping/lunging/misfire thing from barely touching the pedal at curb idle and in drive.it also stopped the jolts I was feeling at highway speeds under load...but now I got an intermittent no start issue.in one instance the starter would click and engage into the flywheel but wouldn't turn over and the other which is 2 times now-motor cranks normal but no spark.i got a 12 volt incandescent bulb tester glow for power to the module/ coil pack assembly,didn't check for specific voltage yet..but in both circumstances for some odd reason I decided to jump start it.idk why I thought of it after the fact of moving vehicle by hand or car but 2 times it started the car and ran like a champ.i mean the starter incident would warrant a hunch to jump it but not for a no start no spark.i have yet to try it again cause yesterday I started it to move it to the other side of the street for alternate parking.i had to start it and quickly get it into gear and going before my neighbor grabbed my spot.it ran funny and the mil lite came on again like it has been here and there.i got it across the street,stopped the motor and then tried to start it but nothing,no spark.i'm waiting for my spare battery to come off the charger to use it as a booster pack jumper-hopefully it'* the same thing as a store bought designated jumper pack theory,maybe not the original cca specs but at least 12 or 13 volts after the charging cycle is done, I have one more cycle to go to equalize the cell power.i need this to work when i'm in a pinch and stuck to buy more time until I can get to figuring what is going on..i hope I don't need a car or my plug in car starter to get me going when it fails otherwise i'm down a car . I'll probably have to use my always reliable 87' tank wagon ford with about 250k on it,she runs like a champ...the pic is my Bronx redneck way of charging my spare dead battery on the go while it was still connected to car and underhood battery..all went well ,no explosions while out running errands.i wasn't sure if it was safe or wise to do so.,but of course the car started with out needing a jump start a handful of times throughout the day.no problem...

Bronx redneck jimmy rig<br/>

P.*.- I forgot to mention thanks for reading,thanks for your future reply if I don't say so after and I am going to read other parts of the forum for more info on my situation and stayed tuned possibly for a new thread if I have to start one.

I kept the wires in, the plugs were fine,i didn't do a compression test.

. I also forgot to mention something else when I first got the car and went to start it one day it cranked but no start also the security light was on..i took the key out and cleaned the resistor pellet and sprayed some wd 40 in the lock and it went away or years,now this same light has been on for months now and never affected it starting until who knows maybe now?

Probably a bad Hitachi MAF sensor. Get a Bluetooth odb2 adapter and the Torque2 app on your phone you can monitor just about everything even cylinder misfire by going into the settings and showing the hidden sensor readings. Custimize a dashboard to show TPS and MAF sensors in small graphs. pushing the throttle should make a smooth ramp up in signal on both sensors. If you are getting erratic spikes or no signal your sensor is probably bad.
You can also monitor purge and egr with this app.
P0300 is random misfire and usually a vacuum leak. You can monitor your vacuum from the app as well, but better if you use a real vacuum gauge to pinpoint the problem

Unfortunately the OP'* '94 is not OBD 2, and I am not aware of any bluetooth adapters that will interface with this specific system.

thanks for the help but this was a year or so ago with the lunging at any speed and jolts at highway speed.that'* been fixed.it was a bad egr.as far as the other codes go.who knows the light hadn't come on for so long.it does now with a new issue that I posted.check that out and reply if you can to that.as far as a Bluetooth code reader goes they don't make em' for obd 1,1.5..i wish they did.thanks anyway i'm glad I wasn't holding my breath to get it running again or just running better..