Originally Posted by supercharged94
I was getting the same inconsistant cranking with only the 12 before I pulled it down now I have the vats wires cut and what I do is place the 12 in between it holding the two wires on either side of the pellets. Then I use the number 5 to turn the cylinder to get it to crank which it reacts in the same manner it did before I pulled it apart...
If I'm reading this all correctly (and I've got only about a 60% confidence of _that_), the #12 resistance is the correct one, simply because that'* the one that gets your starter motor activated. Never mind what the VIN lookup determines; that tells you only that when the car was built in 1994, it had a #5 VATS module assigned. That was a long time ago.
So put your VATS wiring back together and start using the #12 key. If the engine cranks for a while but then triggers the Security light before the engine actually gets going, I would wonder whether (1) the key resistance is not _quite_ what it'* supposed to be, and/or (2) there is an intermittent or dirty connection through the ignition switch key contacts where they touch the key, and eventually the measured resistance goes out of range (or just gets interrupted) before you get the car started.
Once the engine is running, with ignition key in the Run position (e.g. while you're driving), it requires a full 60 seconds of loss of contact with the key resistor before the Security light will come on (as a warning that a fault has been detected), but even then, VATS will not kill the engine; the _only_ thing that will happen while you're driving is that the light will illuminate. But if the measured resistance is momentarily not correct during the _starting_ process, that will lead to an instant kill, as you have seen.
So I think you're on the right track with the right resistance number, but you've still got something flaky, intermittent or slightly out-of-spec-rating that'* interfering with your efforts to start the car.