I found this site by searching the website to cure some problems I was having with my 92 SSEI bonneville. To my surprise, most of my issues were shared by many.

I would just like to share some of the problems that I am/was currently having.

1. The intermittant IP display. ( Which I am currently having fixed for 169 + 34 for *&h through MR. Wizard out of Canada. It comes with a 2 year warranty.

2. Blower motor problem. Blows out awesome air if I remove the resistor on top of blower motor housing, but not so well inside the car. Still trying to figure this one out yet.

3. Error codes...18, 21, 22, 26, 31, 34, 56 and 58. A little history. I payed 100 bucks for this car...body is till in good shape for the year, but I had to remove the transmission for repair( this is another notorious thing with bonny'* I am finding out). So the code 31 was an easy fix. I replaced the crank sensor eliminating code 18. Replacing the TPS fixed codes 21 & 22. The code 34 was eliminated by replacing the air filter. Not quite sure what fixed the 26, 56 or 58 codes.

4. The hanging of the throttle cable from idle...removing the TB and giving it a severe cleaning fixed that.

5. The SC is making the notorious rattle..that is also on my to do list.

6. ABS and Traction off lights are on. I am presuming that they are both related. Hopefuly fixing the ABS will also fix the Traction.

So for now, this seems to be my project car. hehe. But, this is by far yet the most helpful site I have found on the net. Thanks to all with the feedback for the corrective measures

5. Coupler (I'm sure you found that)
6. wheel speed sensor in a front wheel hub

Sounds like you're good with cars. Welcome.

Welcome. You sound like you are in the same situation that I was a couple of months ago. I too have found this site a very valuable resource. We can help you through.

1) Is that $169 + $34 shipping Canadian or USD?

2) If you have an SSEi then you have electronic climate control. Therefore, there is no resistor in the blower motor housing. It is a module. If there is no air at all entering the passenger'* cabin, I would suspect the ait inlet door is stuck. If it defaults to defrost only, then check the vacuum lines behind the dash and under the hood at the vacuum "tank"

3) We're gonna have to hit those one at a time

.....

6) You are right, they are related. Sometimes just poor contacts at the wheel sensor wires, other times hubs need to be replaced. I have the same probs too so I think we'll be asking the same questions.

That would be in US dollars. That was also shipping it express. Also note that you are able to track the package until it leaves the US. At least that is what has happened to me at this point.

I thought it was a resistor, but I could have gotten it confused with all the reading I have been doing on this site. hehe. But yes, it is attached at the topside of the blower motor box on the firewall. I do have some air, but not as much as from the firewall side. I pulled apart the glovebox this weekend trying to see if I could locate the airmix door, I can't even see it. Hopefully I dont have to remove the dash...that looks like alot of work.

Also I would like to comment on the transmission. The drivetrain itself has 171k miles. When I got this one rebuilt, it already had a reman sticker on it. The shop informed me that the common parts that go out on these transmissions are the reaction shell and the sprag.

Does anyone have the instructions to R & R the coupler in the SC? It would probably be a good idea to change the oil since it would be apart I am assuming.

Is the wheel speed sensor actually part of the wheel hub? And is there a way to test (maybe with an ohm meter) as to which one/* are bad?

The air mix door actuator is just for temp changes, not air volume. When I first got my 93, I put a test light on the fat purple wire from the blower module to the fan and found the light to be rather dim at high setting. This indicated less than 12 volts was being supplied to the fan. A multimeter would have been better for troubleshooting this, but the test light was within reach. I picked up a module from the boneyard for like $25.

I can get some specifics for testing the input and output on the blower control module if you need them

Randman~

If you could do that it would be great. At least I dont have to rip out the dash.

Blower Control Module

DESCRIPTION

The Blower Control Module is a solid state device that operates the blower motor. The Blower Control Module outputs a voltage that varies between 0 volts (blower motor OFF) and 12 volts (maximum blower motor speed).

OPERATION

To determine the appropriate output voltage, the Blower Control Module monitors a varying voltage signal (between about 2 and 8 volts) from the Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) programmer. The module then amplifies the signal and applies voltage directly to the blower motor. Blower Control Module output voltage is also monitored by the HVAC programmer
......................................

I thought I saw something more detailed than this. I'll keep looking but this will get you started.

Ok..The results in volts from the purple wire for all 5 steps of the blower motor are as follows:

from low to high
2.01
7.66
9.55
11.46
13.70

Although I dont hear much change between 4 and 5.

That sounds right for BCM output. So that does not produce any cabin air? Floor, vent or defrost?

Not as much as it puts out when I remove the module from the top of the box under the firewall.