Wait, why would it is ssay the 91-97 engines? We are talking 2 different series.

Here'* what it has (it'* free so I doubt this is breaking any laws, but if so, whoops). A lot of these steps weren't actually necessary..

1991-97 Vehicles
EXCEPT 1995-97 VIN 1 AND K ENGINES

See Figures 18 and 19
Remove the plastic engine cover and air intake duct.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System of this repair guide. If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires on the right side of the engine and set aside.
Remove the fuel rail from the vehicle.
Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield.
Unfasten the cable bracket-to-cylinder head mounting bolt.
Remove the power steering pump bracket.
Loosen the alternator mounting bolts, then position the alternator aside for clearance.
Remove the alternator bracket.
Disconnect the heater pipes and bypass hose.
Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the intake manifold from the vehicle. Remove and discard the gasket and thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces and intake manifold bolts and bolt holes.

Fig. Fig. 18: Exploded view of the intake manifold and gaskets - 12763.8L (VIN C) engine shown, later models similar

Fig. Fig. 19: Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence - 1276-95 vehicles

To install:
Apply a suitable sealer to the ends of the manifold seals.
Position a new intake manifold gasket, then place the intake manifold over it. Apply a suitable threadlocking sealer to the retaining bolts, then install and tighten them twice, in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, to 23 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Connect the bypass hose and the heater pipes.
Install the alternator bracket. Move the alternator into position, then tighten the mounting bolts.
Install the power steering pump bracket.
Tighten the cable bracket-to-cylinder head mounting bolt.
Install the exhaust crossover heat shield.
Install the fuel rail in the vehicle.
Connect the right side spark plug wires, as tagged during removal.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Install the air intake duct and engine cover.

Hey guys, I could really use some input on the LIM gasket situation, heater hose install, and torque specs.. I appreciate the help.

For the torque specs, go by danthurs measurements, you will be able to tell that 23 inch pounds is not enough torque on those bolts.

The LIM gasket should be fine to bolt back down. The LIM should still squish the RTV into place even if it'* solidified. I don't know that I would try cleaning the RTV off the gaskets, you would be risking damaging the gaskets.

Not sure about the heater hose install, can't say I've ever messed with them or if I have I don't remember.

Great, thanks for the help. I'll continue on.

My weapons misfired last night, but now I'm locked and loaded... (see attachment)

May the pwnage commence! Haha!

alot of the rtv'* that i use say to do what you did in the directions anyway

Good to know. It actually still seeped out some when I fully torqued today so that seems like a good sign. have new uim on and working on the water pump. Just got it off and taking a break before I finish cleaning the surface. That old gasket is a PITA to get off. Not to mention just getting to the water pump lol. It'* relieving to be there though. I don't think I'll have a problem reassembling tonight.

Is it recommended to do an oil change right away or drive it a few days first? I know I got a little gunk in there scraping the gaskets off the LIM. not much, but some is inevitable.

PS... New tools make this job a million times easier

So, what is this and how do I get it out of my way? I absolutely cannot change the heater hoses without dismounting it. I removed the screw from the clamp around the center, but it felt like it had a tension on it and I didn't want to stretch it. Is there another easy way? I don't need to move it far.

You can see the ends of the hoses there and why I am so adamant about replacing them. I can almost guarantee those will leak once the system gets up to pressure as is.