1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

94 just quit running. I need suggestions....HELP!!!

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Old 10-18-2004, 06:47 PM
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The hardest part is dropping the tank. I think the stealership is ripping you off. I had a Caddy done at the stealership none the less a few years ago because I didn't have the time and it cost me $400. Get a second opinion if you are not going to do it yourself.
Old 10-18-2004, 08:07 PM
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You can do it yourself for less than 1/4 of that cost and about 4 hours.
Old 10-19-2004, 03:15 AM
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What is the process for dropping the tank? Anybody got a link?
Old 10-19-2004, 02:53 PM
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You're in luck, I just did this yerterday on my 93, and it'* the exact same on a 94 (which by the way I've also done it on)

1.Empty as much fuel as you can out of the car, Driving it, siphon it whatever.
2.Put chocks on the front wheels
3.Put the rear of the car on jackstands, The ones I used yesterday are 19 inches tall and my tank barely fit out.
4.On the drivers' side, at the rear of the tank are two hose clamps. Loosen and moove them up the hoses and out of the way.
5.Follow the tank straps to the rear of the car and loosen the bolts retaining them just enough to slide the tank around.
6.Slide the tank towards the drivers' side enough for it the clear the exhaust on the passenger side. Watch the brake lines on the drivers' side.
7.Once there is nothing under the tank, Remove the straps carefully and set the tank on the ground, A helper is going to be needed. I only had about a gallon in the tank and because of the tight quarters it took three of us under there.
8.As you slide the tank down, watch the lines leaving the tank on the top, heading toward the passenger side, Do not put alot of stress on these lines.
9. Disconnect the fuel lines. One is just rubber slipped over a pipe, pull it off. The other two are black plastic, Mark one set so you know they go together. Then push them farther together, and squeeze the two tabs on the white part, then it'll pull apart.
10. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection. Squeeze the gray part and slide it out, then you can lift the black tab and slide the two halves apart.
11. Slide the tank out from under the car.
12. Remove the fuel pump assembly retaining ring. Push it counter-clockwise with a flat headed screwdriver. Push on one tab until it stops, move to the next tab counter-clockwise and continue around like that.
13. thread the fuel pump assembly out of the tank.

From here the directions on your new pump will direct you. Assembly is reverse of removal.

Have Fun
Old 10-19-2004, 11:52 PM
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Man! Thanks Damemorder!!! That is sure to help.

I have decided to go ahead and do the work myself. There is nothing to lose. I am not gonna pay the $1200 the stealership wanted. I went into the dealership and they started trying to talk me into getting the work done. I told them to F off.

I figure it like this. The car has never had any problems. Nothing major anyway. Had to replace a few alternators, but I have been told that is a common problem. I figure it deserves a chance.

My question is, how do you know what fuel pump you need? Autozone asks if I need CRC or CAC. Where do you find that info? Thanks...
Old 10-20-2004, 08:49 PM
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Got her running. Had a friend come over and it took about 3 hours, but we got her going. Runs like a champ now. Little rough, but probably needs a good shot of Chemtool. Boy it is nice to hear her running again. Thanks to all of yall for your help!!!
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