1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Ain't got no brakes!

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Old 07-02-2009, 03:11 PM
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Default Ain't got no brakes!

Name that movie.

But seriously as the title says. Old lady in her car jutted out so I had to slam on my brakes and swerve a bit. My sister said she heard a bang, I did not hear it, I might have been too busy concentrating on keeping the car under control.

Anyways a few hundred feet down the road I noticed I ain't got no brakes! Not panicking I kept depressing the pedal, finally as the pedal is all the way down the car starts to slow. It feels almost like I only have rear brakes, and the car seems to lean to the left a bit at higher speeds when I braked. The stupid brake lights didn't even come on until a half hour later when I finally almost got it home, what kinda system monitor is a half hour late? lol.

Gonna drop it off tomorrow morning.

On a side note, when I went out that morning the brake pedal seemed... a little hard. Like I used to be able to press it down a bit more before the car started to slow, and this morning it felt very hard and stiff.
Old 07-03-2009, 01:27 PM
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So I got the car back, a brake line burst. $120.

The guy said the other 5 lines also look really bad and rusty, he didn't touch them because they might come apart. But he said if we wanted to keep the car we should replace them too. He said it'* mostly labor, for the 5 of them about $400. Hmm... *does search for guide*

I got a free tire rotation too.
Old 07-03-2009, 02:10 PM
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wish i seen this yesterday my 1st guess would have been a brake line very easy and cheap fix
Old 07-03-2009, 02:28 PM
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I can come down and help you fix them if you want
Old 07-03-2009, 02:42 PM
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Well I have two vice grips, and I have a little plumbing experience. The only thing is I've never bled anything before (except my own cuts lol).

We'll see. Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know.
Old 07-03-2009, 05:44 PM
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I think something is wrong, I got to drive my car later today and the brakes don't feel right. Like I have to press the pedal halfway down before I feel the car really start to slow down. I tried pumping the brakes and pressing it down pretty hard, only made a slight difference for the better. I checked, my brake fluid is right under the cap so it seems full. I called the shop back but they don't I couldn't leave a message, I guess I'll have to call them back monday.
It'* like a 2 second delay before I press the pedal down far enough for the car to really feel like it'* braking, doesn't feel the like the same instant response I'm used to.
Old 07-05-2009, 09:45 PM
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bleeding the brakes requires 2 people, done it on a firebird.
1 person pumps the second tightens the line after it starts pissing (good foot exercise)
Old 07-06-2009, 02:06 AM
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the way i was taught was to have two people #1 the guy in the car pumps 3 times and holds #2 the guy at the caliper loosens the bleeder (at this point the guy in the car will feel the pedal go to the floor) #3 then the bleeder screw is tightened back up continue this until a steady stream comes out of the bleeder valve
Old 07-08-2009, 05:17 PM
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My friend'* dad said they must have not bled it properly. He said he can help me with it. Does anyone have a guide for where there bleeder is at the calipers?

It'* really annoying I almost don't like driving my bonneville now.
Old 07-08-2009, 05:28 PM
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Bleeding brakes doesn't require two people if you have the tools. In this case, yes..two people. No need to pump x times and dance around. Just have the person in the car put their foot on the pedal with gentle force. Open bleeder, they hold it to the floor...you close bleeder, then they let up and do it again. Keep going until you believe all the air is out.

I did brake likes for the first time this winter. Overall it'* not bad. I'd suggest a good double flaring tool, extra brake line and extra unions and line ends. Replace in the largest pieces you can. If you can do the whole line, that'* best.

Double flaring tool at Sears cost $65
6 feet of line maybe $12?
A bunch of ends and unions .. maybe another $10
Big bottle of brake fluid $6
More line....lol $20

What I'm getting at is, it'* pretty easy work and it shouldn't cost hundreds upon hundreds. Heck..you could buy new lines from GM for what the guy is charging you.


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